The lychee, with its vivid red skin and sweet, sparkling fruit, was without comparison to the ancient Chinese, who praised its merits in their writings.

The lychee grows on a hardy tree whose leaves stay green throughout the year. Lychees were first grown in China in Kwangtung province, and were most plentiful in Kwangtung, Kweilin, Fukien and Taiwan.

The Chinese began eating lychees at the start of the Han dynasty, about 2000 years ago. Originally the ancient state of Southern Yue brought them to the Central Plain as a tribute item. Upon tasting them, the Han emperor was so pleased that he ordered lychee trees brought from the south to be transplanted in the palace gardens.

A tale is told of a T'ang emperor who had lychees transported at great cost from a remote area to win the smile of a favorite courtesan. Most delightful is the story of Sung Chue of the Ming dynasty, who was addicted to the fruit. He was not satisfied until he had consumed over 100 a day, and went on frequent expeditions to find and record different varieties.

Lychees were first brought to Taiwan during the Ch'ien Lung era of the Ching dynasty. Some of the original trees, now over 100 years old, may still be seen on the island today.

Lychees were grown in scattered locations during the Japanese occupation, but quality was poor and numbers few. The fruit was not grown systematically on a large scale until after 1961, when organization of the task of research and propagation was handed over to the Taiwan and Chiayi agricultural laboratories. The project was headed by Chang Chen-chou of the Chiayi lab, and Huang Pi-ch'en, professor of horticulture at Hsingda University.

Professor Huang, who has researched the lychee for 30 years, states that Taiwan's climate and soil are ideal for lychee cultivation. Previous failures resulted from using inappropriate seed varieties and improper cultivation techniques.

Collecting and testing a number of seed varieties, Huang found that the hak ip, or black leaf lychee was most appropriate to cultivation on Taiwan, and would yield plentiful, quality fruit. Propagation of the hak ip lychee began that year, but resulting harvests were a disappointment due to farmers' inexperience in growing the new variety.

Chang Chen-chou, still convinced that Professor Huang's convictions were correct, was not to be discouraged. Starting from scratch, he tirelessly studied the growing disposition and characteristics of numerous types of lychees.

Chang found the source of inadequate yields to be the use of temperate zone cultivation techniques of irrigation and fertilization in a tropical climate. At the same time, Huang was developing new propagation methods which would replace traditional ways of sowing seeds and transplanting seedlings. As farmers were systematically trained in these new techniques, lychee harvests became plentiful and higher in quality.

During the next ten years, Huang, Chang and other horticulturists worked on lengthening the growing period of lychees and developing a number of distinctive varieties. They also concentrated on developing fruits with smaller seed kernels. In the future, research will be directed toward a seedless lychee.

Lychees favor a dry, sunny climate, and grow best in rich, well-drained sandy soils. While the tree itself may survive up to 200 years, the tender fruit can only be stored for a short period of time.

Aimed at eliminating the possibility of an oversupply that cannot be stored, the past few years have seen an increase in lychee exports and processed lychees. Dried lychees, canned lychees and lychee wines have recently appeared on the market.

Pink and red, large and small, with thick or fine skins, there is a growing variety of lychees available today. When making a purchase, one should look for a round, full fruit with a fresh color and a durable yet resilient skin. It is best to buy lychees that have not been separated from the stem.

Lychees are most flavorful when chilled, and can be mixed with other fruits or eaten on ice. On a sweltering summer afternoon, nothing can compare to this luscious, refreshing fruit.

(Jill Ardourel)

[Picture Caption]

1. Vivid red lychees sold by roadside vendors quickly allure customers. 2. Sparkling canned lychees are a delightful addition to a bowl of mixed fruits. 3. Lychees are tied into bunches and cut from the trees during another bountiful season.

Lychees, attractive in appearance, are often the subject of painting. Pictured is a painting by Ch'i P'ai-shih.

1. Vivid red lychees sold by roadside vendors quickly allure customers.

2. Sparkling canned lychees are a delightful addition to a bowl of mixed fruits.

3. Lychees are tied into bunches and cut from the trees during another bountiful season.

Lychees, attractive in appearance, are often the subject of painting. Pictured is a painting by Ch'i P'ai-shih.