Shrines as history
In front of an Earth God shrine at the head of the path to Hubao Lake, Liu Ka-shiang starts to explain how to examine such shrines.
When in old times people would begin farming a new area, they would first look for a stone or slab that would serve as a place to pray. There they would seek the local Earth God’s protection of their development of the land. That means that the history of the village begins with that of the local Earth God shrine.
The couplet at the doors of the shrine tell of the culture and the time of its founding. For example, “field of blessings” represents rice fields, and “Guangxu” refers to the Guangxu era (1875–1908) of the Qing Dynasty in which this shrine was built. It’s an invaluable insight into local history.
Earth God shrines in Shuangxi are all made of simple ashen sandstone, unpainted and unadorned. On the roof are a pair of horn-shaped protuberances, indicating that the structure was built in the era of Japanese rule. Since it is in such a remote location, it still maintains its original, simple facade.
The mountain valley farmland of Taiping was leveled out and developed by a Qing official, Huang Tingtai, who was in charge of Touwei in neighboring Yilan County. He discovered that the soil there was fertile but unused and, thinking it was going to waste, brought in farmers from Yilan. With a plentiful water supply and fertile soil, the area became a bustling village with terraced fields as early as 200 years ago. Poor families outside the village hoped to marry their daughters off to Taiping residents, and the bustling atmosphere also cultivated many amateur literary types who have left a large body of poetry.
With the changing times, many residents moved away and fields went fallow. Tang Yu, a senior historian who researched the search for gold in Taiwan, was tasked with writing a local history of Shuangxi and in 1977 passed through Sanfen’er, a town south of Taiping. There he wrote “On Seeing Fallow Fields on a Journey to Taiping”:
The crags of Oriole Peak, where the Beishi Creek starts / Ahead are the roaring falls of Hubao Lake / Lodging temporarily at Sanfen’er, / Sighing as I consider the fields that are left untilled.
The stark yet majestic view described in the poem remains the same 30 years on.
Shuangxi’s Haishan Cake Shop and terraced field farmers from neighboring Gongliao have cooperated to sell gift boxes of puffed-rice cakes made of local rice.