The mullet season in the Republic of China lasts each year from the middle of November to the following February, when the fish swim southward with the chin chao (a cold front) to lay eggs in Pashih Straits off the western coast of Taiwan. Mullet fishing has a history of some 300 years in Taiwan. As both mullet and their roe are regarded as a delicacy and bring a high price on the market, at the same time every year, hundreds of fishing boats gather on the west coast of Taiwan from Wuchi in Taichung County to Hengchun in Pingtung County to hunt down the fish. The Council of Agricultural Planning and Development estimates that more than 2 million fish have been caught in the past two years, earning a total of NT$350 million for the fishermen.

The most important work before the fishing boats set sail is to inspect and repair the 500-meter long fishing nets. The most up-to-date scientific equipment including sonar and radar devices are used to search out the richest mullet fishing grounds. The Kaohsiung branch of the Taiwan Fishery Research Institute, command center for the mullet fishing boats, also dispatches a vessel to help fishermen trace the shoals. These devices have considerably increased the fishermen's harvest each year.

In general, temperatures of 20°- 22℃, and 3.2%-3.3% salinity provide the most ideal conditions for mullet, so the earlier the cold front arrives, the more northerly the fishing grounds are. After double checking their boats, the fishermen are ready to set sail. If they are lucky, they might, on their way, catch a large quantity of pi tao or leather knife fish, which are usually the harbingers of mullet. When sea birds are spotted hovering over a dark patch of water, usually at dawn, the fishermen are overjoyed to realize they have finally traced the mullet.

Two fishing boats generally work together to manipulate the giant fishing nets. As soon as the fishermen spot the mullet, a small boat from the mother ship circles round the fishing grounds, and surrounds the fish within 10 minutes. A police boat patrols nearby to maintain order and to prevent small rafts from invading into the net area to catch other boats' fish or to damage the nets.

The climax comes when the fishermen slowly start to pull up the nets. They can feel the weight of fish in their wet palms. As the circle narrows, thousands of fish start to roll and jump, struggling for their lives. After the exciting operation is over, and the hold is fully loaded with mullet, it is time for the fishermen to sail back home.

The tinkle of bells on shore tells everyone that the first fishing boat is returning in triumph. As soon as the boats are docked, an auction is held. The boat owner will first select and display some extra large female mullet, then open the hold to show the rest of the catch to buyers. In order to gain a high price, the captain will sometimes choose one of the choicest females, cut open its abdomen, and remove the roe. He will then repeat aloud prices offered by buyers. Each fish is sold for an average of NT$150, and its roe can fetch from NT$300 to 900.

The simplest way to tell the sex of a mullet is to inspect its middle section. If a white liquid is exuded on applying pressure, the fish is a male, but if the belly is round and juts out like a drum, it is probably a female.

Regarded as an exceptionally nutritious food, mullet roe is mainly exported to Japan, although some is sold on the local market. The fresh roe is first salted and dried in the sun, before being pressed and hardened with stones. After vacuum packing and labelling, it is ready for sale.

Every year, when winter comes, the mullet arrives on time like an old friend, bringing a considerable fortune to Taiwan. Because the fish resources are never depleted, the annual catch can be regarded as an example of the "equilibrium of ecology."

[Picture Caption]

Opposite: Two fishing boats generally work together to manipulate the giant fishing nets. When an auction is held, the boat owner will first select and display some extra large female mullet (left), and then show the catch to buyers (below).

Below: The simplest way to tell the sex of a mullet is to inspect its middle section. Bottom: the triumphant return of the fully laden boat. Right: The fishermen open the hold and unload their catch.

Left: As the mullet roes dry in the sun, women workers carefully dust them. Below: After being removed from the mullet's abdomen, the roe must be tied up with string.

When an auction is held, the boat owner will first select and display some extra large female mullet （left）, and then show the catch to buyers （below）.

When an auction is held, the boat owner will first select and display some extra large female mullet （left）, and then show the catch to buyers （below）.

The simplest way to tell the sex of a mullet is to inspect its middle section.

the triumphant return of the fully laden boat.

The fishermen open the hold and unload their catch.

As the mullet roes dry in the sun, women workers carefully dust them.

After being removed from the mullet's abdomen, the roe must be tied up with string.