As I was strolling down the street one day, an elevated platform suddenly whisked by filled with people disguised as goblins and monsters. My curiosity aroused, I followed the float into a narrow alley leading to a temple. It was like going through a time tunnel into the past. In the dimly illuminated street, I could make out adults and children engaged in various kinds of activity, all with faces painted red and green and wearing white or blue patches. Dressed in python robes and what looked like old constables' uniforms, the participants were acting out their roles as assistants of the city god. In the past, they would have been believers who were paying tribute to the god for favors received. In today's more realistic climate, they were keeping a tradition alive by organizing a parade in honor of the ancient deity.

The original city gods were identical with earth gods, shown by the fact that the two characters meaning city god were derived from older characters meaning "city wall" and "moat." People felt that the wall and moat protected them, and that they should show their gratitude.

As time passed, the city god's powers grew to include control over good and evil. Eventually, the earth god became Yang Kuan and the city god Yin Kuan. The two of them controlled all aspects of the people's lives both today and in the hereafter. During the Ching dynasty, prospective local officials had to select an auspicious day to go to the city god's temple and spend the night praying before delivering a public statement.

There are many of these old documents still surviving in Taiwan. They correspond to the vow now taken by civil servants that they will be upright and honest and carry out their duties to the best of their abilities. A typical example of this kind of vow was that made in the 53rd year of the reign of the emperor Kanghsi (1720) when Yu Chao-yue, newly appointed governor of Taiwan, said: "I will not take bribes, I will not neglect my duties and I will not be swayed by public opinion."

The city god rules over the two worlds of Yin and Yang, and although his duties are many, judgment is his most important function. To help him decide, he has many assistants, the most important being:

Wen Pan Kuan, who does the sentencing, and Wu Pan Kuan, who carries out the sentences.

The Eight Judges, whose duties include searching the Yin and Yang worlds for good and evil people, and meting out justice. They visit plagues and calamities on evil people, while rewarding good people with long life, wealth, and position.

The Eight Generals, in charge of policing the world. Below them are 36 six heavenly soldiers and 72 earthly soldiers. Their duties include apprehending and punishing criminals.

The people acting as the city god's assistants trail behind them a long string of cookies supplied by women who line the parade route. It is believed that children will grow up tall and intelligent, while old people will enjoy good health, if they eat the cookies.

I later chanced upon a long line of dragon dancers, and followed them into a narrow lane. The performers mingled with the onlookers, and there were people everywhere. I squeezed through and tried to make for the city god's temple, but was swept on by the crowd. I kept remembering the old saying: "On May 13, people watch people."

The most impressive part of the parade was made up of people following the city god's carriage. Most of them carried small lanterns or incense burners, and a few women wore triangular cangues (used in former times to manacle prisoners). Attached to the cangues were yellow pieces of paper indicating that the women were either seeking the intervention of the city god, or were grateful for his help in the past.

The celebrations continued throughout the afternoon. The participants had not stopped for lunch, and although they did not seem to feel the pangs of hunger, I certainly did. So I made my way from the colorful ceremony to enjoy my dinner.

[Picture Caption]

1) Placing the city god in his carriage for his annual city tour. 2) "Lao pei shao" is an old folk custom that adds excitement to the busy atmosphere. 3) Putting on tiger make-up. 4) Ceremonies preparing for the welcome of the city god.

1) A young participant. 2) Cookies worn by the "eight generals" are donated by women spectators. It is said that children who eat them will grow wise, while old people will remain healthy. 3) This general's teeth and metal eyes were painted on. 4) Chi Yeh sways as he walks the streets.

1) When the "eight generals" arrive at the temple, the ceremonies begin. 2) Children examining Pa Yeh's head laid by the roadside.

"Lao pei shao" is an old folk custom that adds excitement to the busy atmosphere.

Putting on tiger make-up.

Ceremonies preparing for the welcome of the city god.

A young participant.

Cookies worn by the "eight generals" are donated by women spectators. It is said that children who eat them will grow wise, while old people will remain healthy.

This general's teeth and metal eyes were painted on.

Chi Yeh sways as he walks the streets.

When the "eight generals" arrive at the temple, the ceremonies begin.

Children examining Pa Yeh's head laid by the roadside.