The ornate and spaciously designed Tsu Shih Temple, located in Sanhsia, Taipei County, is regarded as one of the highest expressions of oriental art. The 200-year-old edifice was built in the 34th year of Chien Lung in the Ching Dynasty, and was dedicated to the legendary hero, Chen Chou-yin. Chen, the patron saint whose image is enshrined in the temple, was a native of Fukien province. As the Sung Dynasty was being destroyed by the iron hooves of the Mongols, Chen teamed up with Wen Tien-shang to rally the patriots and make a last desperate stand. Though he failed, and was forced to become a hermit to avoid persecution by the Mongols, his descendants successfully overthrew the Yuan dynasty and founded the Ming Dynasty which followed it. When Chu Yuan-chang was enthroned, he decided to deify Chen Chou-yin in commemoration of his chivalrous deeds, and to allow future generations to pay their respects. The remains of the patron saint were later moved to Taiwan by Cheng Cheng-kung, better known in the West as Koxinga, and a new temple was built to honor him. When the Japanese occupied Taiwan, the local people used the temple as a rallying point and were able to launch telling blows against the Japanese army. The temple, thus, became the symbol of solidarity among the Chinese people in Taiwan.

After the retrocession of Taiwan from Japan to the Republic of China, the people of Taipei County started to repair and reconstruct the temple, which was almost in ruins after war. In charge of planning and designing for the renovation project is well-known artist Li Mei-shu, who studied Western painting in Japan, but has also taken great interest in Chinese classical art. At first, the people of Sanhsia wanted to complete the work within two or three years, but Li advised that a longer period be allowed so the project could be done systematically, and the temple turned into a museum of Chinese history, culture, art, and religion. For the past 35 years, he has worked ceaselessly to make each object in the temple a work of perfection, including the camphor wood carvings under the eaves, the dragon stone columns and the stone lions guarding the gate.

During the main festivals, Prof. Li always accompanies the monks in their chanting and scripture readings on his stringed instruments. His concentration and dedication make him appear to onlookers to be at one with the temple. Inside the main hall of the temple, candles glow among the cylindrical red incense containers. Always found nearby a lamp are a pile of rice, a pair of scissors, ruler and a small mirror, representing respectively intelligence, life, severence from trouble, ability to judge good from evil and openness of heart.

The temple's architectural style is similar to that employed in most Chinese temples over the past few centuries. It has five doors (three in the center and one each to the left and right) and three halls (front, main and rear). So far, reconstruction work on the main and front halls has been completed. The bell tower and drum tower that flank the main hall are almost finished, and at some date in the future, a sun god will be placed under the bell tower and a moon god under the drum tower. A repository hall, data building and a library are also planned for the future.

The temple is basically built of marble, with a wooden roof. During the reconstruction process, not a single piece of steel, not even a screw or a nail, was used. Conjunction between marble and marble, wood and wood and wood and marble was achieved purely through the use of mortise and tenon. This conforms closely with the tight knit achieved between the yin and yang in Chinese tradition--and also achieves the modern ideal of being virtually earthquake-proof. Starting from the steps, the floor, walls and columns are all built of stone, whose sturdiness and durability undoubtedly exceeds that of concrete. The art of stonework is highly developed in this temple.

To further enhance the beauty of the building, the walls are draped with exquisite calligraphy pieces or painting masterpieces donated by famous artists, or decorated with bronze reliefs completed by accomplished sculptors. For instance, at the front of the compound, Prof. Li and his students have decorated walls by creating splendid bronze reliefs based on stories in Chinese history which extol loyalty, filial piety, fidelity and justice; such as Yuen Fei's devotion to his country and Hua Mu-lan going to war in place of her aged and sick father.

The most prodigious of all the stone sculptures in the temple are undoubtedly the three pairs of stone columns in the main hall. The octagonal column at the center is carved with a pair of sinuous Chinese dragons whose horns, whiskers, scales and pearly teeth seem uncannily lifelike. The outer column is carved with a hundred birds amid plum blossoms. Even the birds' thin legs and the smallest tree twigs are meticulously reproduced. The last column is decorated with 36 warriors and 18 horses taken from Chinese mythology. The weapons are intricately carved even though they are mostly no larger than a pen. The battle drapes of the generals and the lifelike facial expressions never fail to impress visitors with the skill and patience of the craftsmen. Since all the work is hand-done, it is estimated that it takes 2,000 working days to complete just one column.

The wood carving in the temple is even more delicate and complex. To prevent attacks from pests, the most solid and durable camphor and juniper wood is chosen for the work. Two or three inch pieces of wood have been carved into a fretwork masterpiece of two or three layers which has been gilded to decorate the magnificent temple roof. The flying phoenix and lions on the ridge and eaves of the building look ethereal, while the mood of tranquillity is enhanced by the wooden lanterns which hang from the eaves.

Another outstanding feature of the Tsu Shih Temple is the bronze door bearing a relief of door gods to protect it. The central gate is guarded by two gods whose names transliterated from Chinese are Hum and Haw. They are flanked by four Chin Kang (Indras) holding a sword, stringed instrument, umbrella and snake respectively to represent the wind and rain, and peace. The right hand side of the door is carved with gods who can help the worshipers to advance their careers, while on the left are gods representing honor and wealth.

So far, master craftsmen have taken more than 30 years to renovate the Tsu Shih Temple. They spend much of their time in a small sculpture room, using only a lamp, hammer and steel file as tools. But under the guidance of Li Mei-shu, their efforts to achieve the perfection of their art will, in another 10 years or so, turn this temple into a major religious shrine.