Ensuring quality
Established in 2000, Haaya’s Coffee is a pioneer in Taiwanese fine coffee. Owner Izuru Mikami, whose wife is Taiwanese, was previously in the food supply business, a background that enabled him to fully grasp the connection between quality raw beans and quality coffee. His search for the perfect beans involves flying out on scouting expeditions to coffee-growing regions in Africa, South America, and Indonesia. If a particular estate scores at least 80–85 out of 100 on a battery of taste and cupping tests for aroma, acidity, and flavor, and if its farming practices are consistent with the principles of sustainable development, then he attempts to secure a contract to import them to his operations in Taiwan.
“I can vouch for the quality of my coffee!” says Mikami, thumping his chest. His quest to brew superior coffee involved mastering all of the fundamentals from the ground up. In 2007, he became the first person in Taiwan to be accredited as a professional cupper by an international coffee sanctioning body.
Haaya’s Coffee has two Taipei locations, one in the business district on Dunhua North Road and the other in a residential neighborhood in Tianmu. In terms of décor, both stores are models of Japanese elegant simplicity, clean and well lit, with unfinished wood furniture and a traditional Washitsu room, which customers can only enter after removing footwear, adjacent to the bar. The coffee cups, made from fine bone china, further enhance the refined aura. As for the coffee itself, they roast their own beans to create three blends that range from dark and robust to light and acidic.
Coffee Only started out as a small place on Xing’an Street in 2003, but later moved to an alley off of Xinsheng South Road in the environs of Da’an Park. Proprietor and bean-roaster-in-chief Graham Liao has mid-length hair that is streaked with gray. He began his professional life in a very different setting, having earned his undergraduate degree in engineering from National Tsing Hua University and an MBA from an American university. But at age 35, determined to live his life without regrets, he left his job in the software industry to launch his own business.
“I’ll never forget the amazing sensation of eating black-coffee-flavored popsicle out of my older cousin’s freezer when I was nine years old!” says Liao, recounting the beginning of his lifelong affair with coffee. As a college student he was a frequent patron of Nan Mei Coffee in Ximending. He would also practice siphon-brewing coffee on his own, even staying up all night on one occasion after he brewed 16 cups in a row.
In the early stages of business, Coffee Only was strapped for cash. With only a trickle of customers, Liao and his business partners had plenty of time to perfect their roasting technique, the byproduct of which was over 100 kilograms of wasted beans. In 2005, they even shut their doors for three days as they toiled relentlessly to create the perfect blend to satisfy Liao’s demanding muse.
In terms of ambience, Coffee Only evokes a European warmth. Hanging lights spread soft yellow light on bead curtains, nut-brown wooden tables, and sofas. A menu thick from all the different options is highlighted by the so-called “V21,” a blending of seven highly distinctive estate beans that took 21 consecutive attempts to create, hence the name. The menu discloses the origins of each blend, provides information about its taste and texture, and as a bonus, appends the story of each concoction’s genesis.
That servers prepare the coffee for patrons at their table is a classy, respectful touch. All of the brewing equipment and the cups for tasting are brought out on a wooden tray. The server illuminates the particular qualities of the coffee requested, then allows the patrons to smell the freshly ground beans before adding hot water from a vessel with a small spout. The server elucidates each step of the procedure, and in the end, the experience becomes a performance from which none of the senses are excluded.
A past winner of the Taiwan Barista Championship, Zhang Zhonglun is a master at creating exquisite espresso foam art. For each cup that he brews he brings the same degree of concentration as during a competition.