For many years the idea of exploring Yunnan was just a pipe dream, inspired by a handful of small books and magazines with interesting photographs that turned up in Katmandu bookstores in the early 80's. By the end of the decade I was in Northern Thailand, working with the Akha hill tribe, who originated from Yunnan and are descended from the Yi, the largest minority in that province. My interest was further kindled, and by the time flights opened from Chiang Mai to Kunming in 1992, I was curious enough to go, if only to compare the Akha and Dai in Xishuangbanna with their counterparts in Thailand.

A Pied Piper of the Chuxiong mountains.

Once I took the plunge, though, my appetite never stopped growing. And early on I made a discovery that gladdened my heart. Unlike my adopted country of Thailand, where the traditional cultures of both hill and plain minorities are inevitably withering under the assimilation process, the opposite situation rules in much of Yunnan, at least in the minority nationality homelands.

Pride is never missing among strongly traditional people-- Huayao Yi woman, shiping County.

For the past ten to fifteen years traditional minority cultures have been getting stronger in Yunnan. It is a condition unique to the region that is even encouraged by the government. The new generation is often leading the way. Young men are training to be Naxi dongbas and Yi bimaws (traditional shamans). Young women are reviving handicraft skills like embroidery. Minority languages are in constant use and even, in Ninglang County, taught in the schools. Festivals expand every year. All the great temples and monasteries have been restored and religious life is freer than probably anywhere else in mainland China.

Hui gentleman, Yao-an County.

Will it last? Is this a last spasm of traditional tribal culture in Yunnan before it, like everywhere else, passes into the ashes of history? Or is it a new beginning? Whichever proves to be the ultimate answer, it's an extraordinary social phenomenon and cries out for recording, by camera, by tape, by questionnaire, now before it disappears. I feel like a late 20th century George Catlin, who traveled the American West painting portraits of native Americans. Armed with a camera rather than a paintbrush, I have the chance to capture Yunnan's minorities in all their happy glory, while they still feel content within their ancient cultural perimeters.

Not really a princess, this Lisu girl just walks like one.

What began as a documentary exercise evolved into something more personal. With repeated visits came deepened understanding, more mutual trust, firm friendships all the more relished for their regular renewals. Gradually I find myself striving to take on more of the traits I admire among my friends in Yunnan-a warm view of hospitality, a greater appreciation of natural surroundings, a resilience to ill fortune and calamities beyond one's control and more inclination to enjoy to the fullest the good times that inevitably follow. The people of Yunnan long ago won my heart. Recently they've been capturing my soul.

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Lugu Lake-if there's a prettier place around, please draw me a map.

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Huayao Yi girl in a festive mood.

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A Pied Piper of the Chuxiong mountains

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Pride is never missing among strongly traditional people-Huayao Yi woman, Shiping County.

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Hui gentleman, Yao-an County

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Not really a princess, this Lisu girl just walks like one.

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Jim Goodman is an American who has lived in East Asia for more than 25 years. Formerly a resident of Korea and Nepal, he currently lives in Chiang Mai, Thailand. For the past 20 years, he has devoted himself to the study of Tibeto-Burman minority groups. He is an expert at natural dyeing and textiles and a professional dealer and collector of Oriental art and crafts. His photographs and essays have been published in a number of periodicals, and he is the author of several books, including his most recent, Meet the Akha.

Mosuo sisters at a family chore, Lugu Lake

Mosuo sisters at a family chore, Lugu Lake.