Penghu fishermen agree that if you want to go bird watching then Maoyu is the best place. During the change between autumn and winter, as birds head south, they often choose Maoyu as a resting place as they make their journey. The number of birds and the different species constitute one-third of all the birds found on the 64 islands of Penghu. More significantly, many gulls on the island have been designated as being on the brink of extinction by many international bird protection associations.

During the early part of the nineteenth century the English had begun preliminary research work on the activities of the marine birds found on Maoyu. Thereafter, bird researchers began to continually come here to carry out research. It was actually not until 1973 that Maoyu caught the attention of biological protectionists both in the R.O.C. and overseas when a doctor from the American Naval Hospital went to Maoyu to conduct research on chigger, the larva of a parasitic mite that causes severe itching. During the research it was discovered that the parasitic mite bred on the breeding grounds of the Philippine noddy.

According to historical data, there have been more than 10,000 Nordmann's terns resting on Maoyu. This type of phenomenon is not only unique to the various islands of Penghu and the entire coast of Taiwan, but something seldom seen throughout the world. Maoyu offers an ideal environment for the Nordmann's tern.

Chimei Island is one of the three main fishing centers of Penghu. Maoyu is located to the northwest of Chimei, and there is an abundance of different varieties of fish near the coast providing marine birds with the best feeding ground.

When we consider landform, Maoyu is composed of two islands: one large, the other small. Seen from a distance it appears that Maoyu resembles two cats in a standing position. Both islands are comprised entirely of basalt. The top of the larger Maoyu Island is 79 meters above sea level, making it the tallest peak of any of the Penghu Islands. Many of the diffs are almost perpendicular to the sea. The landform is dangerous and is not to climb. Most of the Nordmann's terns build their nests in the crevices resembling apartments with each bird having its own secure abode.

Since the place is out-of-the-way, except for the local fishermen who go onto the island to gather seaweed, oysters, and sea urchins, there's usually very little human traffic. For this reason Maoyu has become an island whose ecosystem is excellently preserved.

From June 13 to 15, 1988, as the researchers were about to complete their work, Sinorama's reporters boarded a boat and headed for Maoyu to go bird watching with researchers from the Biology Department of National Taiwan Normal University.

When we arrived at Maoyu it was the first day of the lunar calendar, a night when only the stars, and not the moon, could be seen. Except for the light from a few lanterns on the nearby island of Huayu, it was pitch dark as far as one could "see." That evening, the son of the captain of the boat, a young lad in his second year of middle school who had taken us to Maoyu, carried a bird cage and climbed the cliff in the dark. By midnight he had caught more than thirty Nordmann's terns. In the dead of night, the researchers took measurements of their bodies and weight and recorded any peculiarities. The birds were set free just before dawn after a band was placed around their feet for future recognition.

Since the cliffs are very precipitous and the birds are easily frightened, even the captain's son didn't learn the technique of catching them in a short time. It's interesting to note that when local fishermen are asked whether they've ever eaten the birds they usually answer in the same way: "I know that others have, but I've never tried it before."

We took another approach and asked, "Is bird meat really that tasty? Why would people bother to catch them?" They seemed more interested in this question and finally confessed, "Well. . .bird meat is very fragrant! It tastes great when stewed!"

Whether or not blasting is beneficial to the birds remains an unanswered question. Although 99 percent of the local fishermen feel that the sharp decline in marine birds on and around Maoyu is due to the fact that the military uses the island for artillery testing, some foreign birdwatchers feel that blasting limits the number of people who frequent the island. This decrease in human visitors could also be another factor worth researching.

The decrease in fish catches is probably another factor which has resulted in a decrease in the number of flocks of birds. The amount of fish yielded off the coast is not the same as in former days. Local fishermen can all sense the loss. Some feel that blasting fish with explosives and overuse of the fishing industry's raw materials are also factors. "If the birds don't have fish to eat, then they'll go somewhere else, of course," says a fisherman from Chimei. Perhaps some of the Nordmann's terns have flown to the coast of mainland China, but there's no evidence of this at present.

Why do Nordmann's terns gather on Maoyu? Why the decrease in their numbers? There are many questions which remain to be answered. Biological protection research tells us that there are still lots of treasures worth digging on Maoyu.

[Picture Caption]

Besides marine birds, Maoyu prides itself on protecting the local scenery.

Natural crevices are the ideal choice where Nordmann's terns opt to build their nests.

Since the steep basalt cliffs are not easy to climb, few people bother to tamper with the birds. This is another reason why Nordmann's terns take a special liking to Maoyu. (photo by Jack Chang)

(Above) Philippine Noddy (below) Bridled Tern

There's no shelter on Maoyu, so researchers have no choice but to sit under the sweltering sun and stick it out for several hours as they watch with their binoculars.

The Bridled tern soars dashingly above the sea. (photo by Jack Chang)

After low tide, the marine life that remains behind on the sea platforms is one of the reasons Nordmann's terns pay a visit.

Natural crevices are the ideal choice where Nordmann's terns opt to build their nests.

Since the steep basalt cliffs are not easy to climb, few people bother to tamper with the birds. This is another reason why Nordmann's terns take a special liking to Maoyu. （photo by Jack Chang）

Philippine Noddy.

Bridled Tern.