No visit to Taiwan would be complete without a stop in scenic Taichung, the island's third largest city, with a population of 630,000. This bustling hub is not only one of the island's most prosperous industrial centers but is also rich in history and traditional Chinese arts and crafts. Taichung is a unique blend of old and new, offering the visitor an example of Taiwan's economic development and a glimpse of its cultural heritage.

Covering an area of 163 kilometers on the western coastal plain, Taichung's location has aided economic development of the city. Taichung's harbor and verdant outlying fields provide fresh fish and produce for busy city markets, and both the city and surrounding area are served by an efficient network of roads and railways, linking Taichung to centers in the north and south of Taiwan. Taichung is a mix of modern and traditional architectural styles; on almost every street, high-rise buildings stand next to older homes shaded by stately trees. Although Taichung is an industrial center, new emphasis has been placed on environmental protection, through measures such as construction of a new water treatment plant; on the other hand, some iron-working shops, for instance, still use traditional methods to forge iron bars.

Taichung was the last of thirteen cities founded during the Ching dynasty and is situated on flat, coastal land dotted with small mountains. The earliest communities in Taichung were agricultural; the area offers the most temperate climate in Taiwan, with fertile fields and many small streams running north to south. During the reign of Emperor Kuang Hsu, immigrant farmers migrated from Fukien and Kuangtung to develop the area from Lukang to Taichung, which became a thriving agricultural community. Taichung's numerous small hills also had strategic military value, and the Ta-t'un area became known as "Cannon Mountain." Agriculture is still an important activity in Taichung, and small industries, such as rice milling and food distribution, still exist there.

Taichung's checkerboard street patterns were formed during the Japanese occupation of 1895-1945. The city walls were razed, leaving only remnants of the northern gate. Today, the remains of the gate stand as part of the Wang Yueh pagoda in Chungshan Park. Taichung's collection of historical relics and artifacts cannot compare to Tainan's, and the city lags behind Taipei in the number of cultural activities presented each year. Yet Taichung is still considered a city of cultural significance, especially in terms of folk culture.

Taichung was active in the resistance against the Japanese occupation. The Taichung Middle School, which opened in 1914, was the first school in Taiwan founded by native Chinese, and it opposed the education of Chinese children under the highly prejudicial Japanese system. In 1921 Taiwan's first cultural association was formed in Taichung with impetus from intellectual movements on the Chinese mainland.

After the retrocession of Taiwan in 1945, Taichung became increasingly important as an educational center. Today, the city is the home of more than thirteen universities and colleges and more than a hundred middle schools, lower schools, and high schools. Tunghai University and the Chinese Medical College are two of the city's outstanding institutions.

Taichung's first cultural center was built in 1971, with indoor exhibition space, art and lecture halls, libraries and a 1,000-seat auditorium. For the past two years, prominent members of the government of the ROC have flocked to the center in order to attend ceremonies marking Taiwan's recovery from Japan. In 1978, the government initiated a twelve-phase plan to construct a county cultural center, with the Department of Education absorbing most of the cost. When completed, the new cultural center will house exhibition halls, classrooms, and a museum. The Chungshan meeting hall, now being renovated into a music hall, contains the most acoustically balanced stage in Taiwan. With 1,800 seats, the hall is second in size only to the Sun Yat-sen Memorial Hall in Taipei. In the future, Taichung will house three branch cultural centers with a network of libraries and exhibition halls.

Taichung's provincial library has long provided the populace with cultural and educational opportunities. Recently, the library began a new reference service in conjunction with other libraries. This telephone service handled 3,000 calls and inquiries last year, with the help of experts and local university staff as well as reports and materials contained in the library.

Taichung is one of the most beautiful cities in Taiwan, graced by temples, shrines, and gardens. Pi Hu, or Green Lake, lies in the heart of the city, a haven for city residents and a major tourist attraction. Willowy trees line the banks of the lake, surrounded by delicate flowers. Colorful rowboats and peddle boats, which are available for rent, coast across the water. Pi Hu is a tranquil spot in the midst of the city, with flowers, trees, and high-rise buildings reflected in its glistening waters.

Another scenic spot is the Peitun area of the city, where winding roads and footpaths cut through bamboo groves atop lush, green hills. One of Taichung's accomplishments has been the construction of a footpath--made of cement and embedded stone--up to the top of 859meter Ta-t'un peak. Every morning, throngs of people make the hike before going to work. Peitun also offers flower gardens and an amusement park with Taiwan's first 360degree loop roller coaster.

Taichung's central business district lies in the area of Freedom Road and is full of modern department stores, restaurants, and specialty shops. Pedestrians hurry across the streets, dodging cars and motorcycles, on their way to stores, offices, and government buildings. Taichung is famous for its succulent food; from the Tai Yang cookie company to the back-alley food stalls, shoppers can find every type of Chinese delicacy imaginable. Although modern restaurants and food shops abound and fast-food stores are becoming popular, many people return over and over again to favorite back-alley stands to buy home-cooked delicacies. During the summer, the sidewalks are crowded with tables of people eating a crushed-ice snack called ping, a Taiwan favorite topped with different kinds of fruit, nuts, and beans.

Taichung also offers a wide variety of night markets, an important feature of commerce in China. Major night markets lie in the areas of Chungshan and Chunghsing parks, and the large numbers of people who shop there are a reflection of Taichung's economic prosperity. Every evening at dusk, local merchants set up their small sidewalk stands, switch on their lights, and arrange rows of goods upon their counters. The crowd starts to gather, and by nine o'clock, hordes of bargain-seekers are pushing their way past stand after stand, haggling with the merchants, while local musicians playing drums and cymbals perform on the sidewalks.

Taichung's chief industrial district lies in the western part of the city, with factories and industrial complexes taking up 75 percent of the land. The Far East Training Center stands in the center of this complex, where people with a middle school education or higher can receive vocational training. Based on the principle of education through experience, the center offers a program that applies skills acquired through school, work, and life experiences to actual job tasks. Students live in the center and take charge of day-to-day chores, such as food preparation, cleaning, and gardening. Founded seven years ago, the center now boasts a 95 percent job-placement rate for students receiving three years of training. The center is presently expanding its services and by this July will increase enrollment from 1,400 to 1,800 students.

Taichung's high level of economic development is also apparent from the fact that the average family owns at least two transportation vehicles. Some 60,000 people have cars, while 220,000 have motorcycles. The large number of vehicles has caused parking problems, and the government is building a new parking complex near Chungshan Park. In almost all respects, Taichung is a thriving city that stands as an example of successful economic development. A cultural center rich in history that offers both citizen and visitor alike a glimpse of Taiwan's past and its prosperous future, Taichung should surely be included on the itinerary of any visitor to Taiwan.

(Gerald Hatherly)

[Picture Caption]

Left: Taichung's Chungshan Park is an attractive place to boat. On the right is the unique ChungCheng Pagoda. Right: The park is a favorite place for children to beat the summer heat.

1,2. Various organizations are housed in European-style architecture built during the Japanese occupation. 1. The city party headquarters. 2. Taichung City Government. 3. The children's section of the Provincial Library offers a wide variety of books and programs to promote learning in an enjoyable environment. 4. The new cultural center with its wide and airy lobby.

1,2. The Taichung Confucian temple built in the style of a Sung-dynasty palace. 1. One of the side gates. 2. A full-length view of the temple. 3. A view of the Martyrs' Shrine. 4. Sunlight filters through the red lattice-work doors in the shrine. 5. The Taichung stadium attracts not only athletes but evening strollers as well. 6. Physical education students practicing hurdles at the athletic field. 7. Junior high school students cycling home after school.

1. In the midst Of the hustle and bustle of the city there are still areas of tranquility, as seen here in this traditional home. 2-6. Scenes of Taichung night life. 2. The neon lights of a department store. 3,6. On display at one of the department stores are New Year goods and decorations. 4. Small noodle stands in the back alleys attract hungry shoppers. 5. A night market seafood stall.

1-4. Selections of Taichung's famous food delicacies. Toufu skins, sunshine cakes, pineapple cookies, and honey beans crushed in ice are popular in the hot summer. 5. Gold-plated statues at Nan-t'un Temple have been painted to guard against theft. The statues, stolen years ago, were recently recovered. 6. A beautiful and intricate carving from the Lin-shih Temple.

1. A picture of the oldest family shrine in the Taichung area. 2. An angle shot of a family temple in the Hsi-t'un area. 3. Using traditional methods to make farm implements is evidence of the preservation of culture in Taichung. 4. A view of the Hsi-t'un industrial district and the management center. 5. Students of the Job Training Center learn the fine art of motorcycle maintenance.

The Pei-t'un district is the agricultural area of the city. 1. Local farmers use their own ingenuity to construct a sun-drying rack. 2. The citron is the area's most famous produce and is eaten both fresh and pickled. 3. The fields to the north of the city are planted with rapeseed. 4. The ferris wheel at a private amusement park is a popular ride for young and old. 5. The city government has built five footpaths up to the Pei-t'un hills area to promote hiking and sightseeing. 6. A bird sanctuary in Yake Park.

Right: The park is a favorite place for children to beat the summer heat.

1,2. Various organizations are housed in European-style architecture built during the Japanese occupation. 1. The city party headquarters.

2. Taichung City Government.

3. The children's section of the Provincial Library offers a wide variety of books and programs to promote learning in an enjoyable environment.

4. The new cultural center with its wide and airy lobby.

1,2. The Taichung Confucian temple built in the style of a Sung-dynasty palace. 1. One of the side gates.

2. A full-length view of the temple.

3. A view of the Martyrs' Shrine.

4. Sunlight filters through the red lattice-work doors in the shrine.

5. The Taichung stadium attracts not only athletes but evening strollers as well.

6. Physical education students practicing hurdles at the athletic field.

7. Junior high school students cycling home after school.

1. In the midst Of the hustle and bustle of the city there are still areas of tranquility, as seen here in this traditional home.

3,6. On display at one of the department stores are New Year goods and decorations.

2-6. Scenes of Taichung night life. 2. The neon lights of a department store.

4. Small noodle stands in the back alleys attract hungry shoppers.

5. A night market seafood stall.

2-6. Scenes of Taichung night life.

1-4. Selections of Taichung's famous food delicacies. Toufu skins, sunshine cakes, pineapple cookies, and honey beans crushed in ice are popular in the hot summer.

1-4. Selections of Taichung's famous food delicacies. Toufu skins, sunshine cakes, pineapple cookies, and honey beans crushed in ice are popular in the hot summer.

1-4. Selections of Taichung's famous food delicacies. Toufu skins, sunshine cakes, pineapple cookies, and honey beans crushed in ice are popular in the hot summer.

1-4. Selections of Taichung's famous food delicacies. Toufu skins, sunshine cakes, pineapple cookies, and honey beans crushed in ice are popular in the hot summer.

5. Gold-plated statues at Nan-t'un Temple have been painted to guard against theft. The statues, stolen years ago, were recently recovered.

6. A beautiful and intricate carving from the Lin-shih Temple.

1. A picture of the oldest family shrine in the Taichung area.

2. An angle shot of a family temple in the Hsi-t'un area.

3. Using traditional methods to make farm implements is evidence of the preservation of culture in Taichung.

4. A view of the Hsi-t'un industrial district and the management center.

5. Students of the Job Training Center learn the fine art of motorcycle maintenance.

The Pei-t'un district is the agricultural area of the city. 1. Local farmers use their own ingenuity to construct a sun-drying rack.

2. The citron is the area's most famous produce and is eaten both fresh and pickled.

3. The fields to the north of the city are planted with rapeseed.

4. The ferris wheel at a private amusement park is a popular ride for young and old.

5. The city government has built five footpaths up to the Pei-t'un hills area to promote hiking and sightseein.

6. A bird sanctuary in Yake Park.