Up to snuff
What standards must be met to pass the Chishang Rice certification? Liang Zhengxian, an important promoter of Chishang Rice certification and head of the venerable Chishang firm Jian Hsing Rice Factory, explains that besides having to be grown in Chishang Township, Chishang Rice has to meet strict standards, undergoing a series of tests at harvest time.
Since there are two harvests a year in Chishang, around each May and October, the farmers come into town to register, declaring that their crops are ripe and ready for the harvest. Next, the rice factory or the township administration sends inspectors to take samples from the fields to determine whether pesticide residues are below the minimum level. If so, the harvest may commence. The harvested rice is checked for test weight, the unpolished grains are inspected for wholeness, and the rice is tasted. Any substandard scores in these areas, and the rice is rejected.
The term "test weight" refers to density and specific gravity of the rice. For one unit volume of rice (a liter in this case), the greater the weight, the plumper the rice and the better the quality. To pass the Chishang Rice certification standard, one liter must weigh at least 530 grams. If it weighs more than 560 grams, it is listed as top-grade rice. The average test weight of certified Chishang Rice is 588 grams, some 40 grams more than average rice on the market.
Measuring the wholeness of the unpolished grains involves placing 1,000 grains into a grain differentiator, in which images of the grains are optically compared to a standard size. A computer then classifies the grains into six categories, including whole grains, insect-damaged grains and grain fragments. The rice passes if more than 60% of the grains are counted as whole; if over 80%, then it is top-grade rice.
The taste test was developed in Japan to determine the ratio of protein to starch. Usually, the lower the protein and amylose content, the better the mouthfeel. The minimum standard for Chishang Rice is 60 points, and 75 or above counts it as top-grade rice. The average value during recent spring harvests has been 74, and for fall harvests it has fallen between 70 and 72 due to less sunlight.
"We are currently the only township in Taiwan that sells rice according to grade, and which requires farmers to record plantings and harvests in a ledger," Liang explains. From his prior training by the Mokichi Okada Association in Japan long ago, he is well aware of the importance of keeping a rice production log, and as such he became a major advocate. "At first it met with some resistance. Old farmers said that that they had been growing rice all their lives, so now why must they waste time doing 'homework'?"
So then he used the most practical means of persuading the farmers. He enticed them by saying, "As long as you meet the standards for certification and keep the records, you'll be able to sell your rice to Jian Hsing Rice Factory for above the government-set price of NT$13.8 per catty," and he also organized with the township administration a rice quality competition to encourage farmers to boost the quality of their rice.
The rice company was especially generous when it came to ledgers for superior cultivars, providing comparative data from farmers all over Taiwan, including planting and harvesting dates, pesticides used and fertilizer types and quantities, which can be taken in at a glance. "We know where a farmer's problems are just by looking at the records," adds Liang.
The renown of this method was such that even Huang Kun-bin, subject of the documentary Let It Be, traveled all the way from Houbi in Tainan County to learn more about it. And with the help of digital technology, more and more young farmers can be seen growing rice in Chishang Township. This is not just a manifestation of the power of teamwork, it is also a sign of admirable professionalism. And the sense of honor driving them to work hard comes from the name "Chishang Rice" emblazoned on each sack!
Jian Hsing Rice Factory head Liang Zhengxian holds a rice sack bearing the name Chishang Rice. The red characters on a light green background take up two fifths of the space, and a certification mark sticker issued by the township administration is attached.
Chishang Township in Taitung County boasts high elevations, fine water quality, and little pollution. During harvest season, onlookers are greeted with expansive vistas of grain swaying in the breeze.
Rice King Lin Longxing is well versed in rice farming. He also hopes that publicizing the local brand will attract more young folk to move back to the township and carry on the farming tradition.
The bag containing each of the rice samples collected from the fields bears the farmer's name, plot number, inspector's name and other details.
In 2008, the Chishang Township Administration started issuing certification marks for Chishang box lunches to shops using Chishang Rice. So far, over 20 individual and chain stores around Taiwan have been authorized to sell Chishang Rice box lunches, boosting the repute of the Chishang family of products.
Special equipment tests to see if pesticide standards are met. Inspectors reveal that over 90% of the rice passes on the first try.
Besides certified authentic Chishang Rice, local farmers also grow other crops such as Koshihikari rice introduced from Japan and organic fragrant rice, bringing healthy competition into the market.