Zhuzihu and Nakamura rice
When we arrive at Zhuzihu on a December day, it is drizzling and the temperature is 5°C lower than down in the city. At this time Chen Yongru, head of the Seed Field Club, is carrying three small bags of sun-dried Nakamura rice to Hutian Experimental Elementary School, to use their equipment to mill the rice.
The antique winnower that they purchased online seems to have been through a lot. Chen Yongru deftly tips the rice grains into the feeding hopper and uses his right hand to turn the hand crank for the blower fan while with his left he shakes the feed quantity regulator up and down.
“Look, the ones coming out here are all ‘blanks.’” Chen points to rice husks flying out of the device and explains that empty husks and lightweight sundries are blown out by the fan’s draft. Meanwhile full grains of rice, which are heavier, fall down into an outlet.
The rice is passed repeatedly through the winnower to screen out impurities. Next, the remaining plump grains are put into a huller to remove the husks and bran, and then milled to produce polished rice. The husks and bran can be turned into organic fertilizer, while polished rice is eaten as food. “Freshly milled rice tastes best,” says Chen. “Don’t store it for too long, or it will lose its aroma.”
The next day, nearly 20 people, including members of the Seed Field Club and volunteers from the Eikichi Iso Historical Association, gather at the Miau-Ban Garden Restaurant to enjoy a meal accompanied by Nakamura rice. As they eat, they discuss the cultivation of calla lilies and paddy rice and exchange lighthearted anecdotes.
People in Taiwan today frequently eat Taikeng No. 9 rice, which has translucent grains and a pleasantly firm texture. We notice that Nakamura rice is off-white, with a brown line in the middle of the grain, and it has a very mild rice fragrance and a relatively harder texture.
Chen explains: “Back in the Japanese era, this rice was considered to have a very good mouthfeel. But today, for the club members, Nakamura rice is a variety with a meaningful story behind it—it’s not a question of whether or not it is better to eat.”
Chen Yongru, head of the Zhuzihu Ponlai Rice Seed Field Club, operates a rice milling machine. (photo by Mei Kuo)
When students from Hutian Elementary School see this rare old winnower in action, they all want to try their hands at operating it. (photo by Mei Kuo)