In the early part of September, when Hong Kong is still wrapped in humid heat, going from the busy Kowloon shopping areas to the green Chinese University of Hong Kong campus is like going from one world to another.

No one who has gone to this campus can deny that the scenery is magnificent. The poet Yu Kwang-chung wrote that looking around from the university, what's not water is mountains, and behind the mountains there are still more mountains. But there's a lot more than scenery at the Chinese University.

"As for why they chose the name 'Chinese University,' it was because it was hoped that the students and faculty here may all reflect on and make contributions to Chinese culture, and to promote Sino-Western intercultural exchange," explains King Yao-chi, university vice-president, about the rationale for founding the school.

The school was formally established in 1963, but traces its roots to the 1940's.

It was formed by merging three schools--Chung Chi, New Asia, and United--as foundation colleges. Chen Fong-ching of the Institute of Chinese Studies tells the tale that each of the three schools was different: "At New Asia they spoke Mandarin and revered Confucius; at Chung Chi they spoke English and put their faith in Christ; and at United they spoke Cantonese and made their ties to the local people."

In fact, New Asia was founded in Hong Kong by scholars fleeing the mainland, taking the transmission of Chinese culture abroad as its purpose. Chung Chi was established by the representatives of a Hong Kong Christian congregation in order to spread Chinese language Christian doctrine. And United was itself composed of five academies of higher education.

So what brought them together? That's connected to the environment of the era.

In the 1950's, the number of people coming to Hong Kong from the Chinese mainland increased rapidly. Though Hong Kong was a colonial society (or perhaps because of it), a group of scholars led by historian Chien Mu believed that it was essential to establish an institute of higher education which took the needs of Chinese into consideration.

For the Hong Kong educational community the founding of the school was extremely meaningful. On the one hand, it was the first university set up since the University of Hong Kong 100 years before, and it was fought for and established by Chinese. On the other, since 1963, most of the school's students have been from very ordinary families, often the first of their clan ever to attend college. It has had an ineradicable impact on social mobility for the colony's lower class.

If you go to the Chinese university and ask ignorantly, "Which department is the most famous?," you might get a look which asks in return, "Does this guy have any idea what he's asking?"

That's because among the fifty-one departments in the five faculties of Arts, Business Administration, Science, Social Science, and Medicine, all have their own strengths and history. It's impossible to pick out any as most outstanding.

But if you ask around, it's easy to come up with the special features that the whole university shares in common.

King Yao-chi points out that although most of the instructors at the Chinese University are Chinese, the majority have had comprehensive scholarly training, have spent time abroad, and are fluent in at least Chinese and English. Spiritually, they bridge East and West.

This background manifests itself in some pretty interesting ways: Medical students use Chinese in class, but English on exams; students entering the Department of Chinese Literature must be able to compose in both English and Chinese; psychology students examine Chinese thought processes with Western theories. Perhaps these kinds of things occur in every Asian university, but they are especially intensely felt at the Chinese University.

The cross-cultural nature of the institution also makes itself felt in the scholarly structure. The school has several institutes whose fame and use covers both Orient and Occident.

One example is the Universities Service Center (USC). Founded in as early as 1963, it specializes in collecting Chinese Communist periodicals and publications produced after 1940. It is widely used by Chinese and Western scholars alike, and over 200 books have been written utilizing its holdings. Another is the Institute of Chinese Studies, greatly respected in the sinological community. For over a decade it has been working at translating Chinese literature into English. "Eight or nine out of every ten of the world's best Chinese translators have been through here," says Chen Fong-ching proudly.

Another feature is international scholarly exchange. The school has exchange agreements with Indiana, Missouri, and Keio universities. "Maybe you can't see students from every country here, but you can run into scholars from any country," says one student.

This fact is related to Hongkong's "cross-roads" geographical setting, to its always free atmosphere with no restraints on speech, and to its proximity to China, which has made it a mecca for those interested in the Middle Kingdom.

But most important is the flourishing human factor. Jean K.M. Hung, Assistant Director of USC, relates that the people who come to her school are "extremely concerned" with China. With this interest in common, they exchange and create new ideas; and it is the ideas--the intellectual stimulus--which attract many more to the Chinese University.

The school is also known for its respect for scholarship. Chang Shu-ting, chairman of the biology department, says that the school not only does not interfere with scholarly research, it also gives leeway in terms of facilities and assistants. "If only the research design requires something, then all faculty--at whatever level--are treated equally."

Faculty pay is also an attraction. The lowest level of lecturer can earn HK$30-40,000 (roughly US$3,800-5,200) per month, competitive with first class universities anywhere.

With its setting, people, and accomplishments, you would think that the Chinese University has a bright future. But it faces the shadow of 1997. And what's most worrisome is brain drain, for students, staff, and even professors.

Chang Li-ti, a graduate student, says that only two or three of the ten students in her program will stick it out; most are looking for some way out. As for staff, USC director Kuan Hsi Chi says that they are leaving in the largest numbers. Turnover is a little slower for professors, perhaps, but many believe the stability won't last long. Though Kuan says that "Because they feel that things are just too perfect here, many couldn't bear to leave," many are simply waiting for an opportunity. "At least they want to go out of Hong Kong and pick up a 'guarantee,' then they'll decide what to do," relates Leonard L. Chu, chairman of the Department of Journalism.

Yet the school is not only not stopping them, it provides letters of recommendation or leaves of absence. "There's no choice; we've got to adapt to the trends," says Ho Hsiu Hwang, director of General Education. "Giving people the chance to emigrate has become a way to keep talent around longer."

But that doesn't solve the problem. It is especially hard on young scholars, say about 40, who are just getting settled but may have to stop everything. But King Yao-chi also contends that Chinese have no right to be pessimistic in the face of 1997. "Eighty-five per cent of the people can't leave; the future of the Chinese University must be considered together with them."

Internationalization, liberalization, expansion...these are all ways to secure a post-1997 footing. What will the future be? Maybe what they do now will provide the answer to that question.

[Picture Caption]

The Chinese University of Hong Kong is blessed with brilliant scenery, as you can clearly see from this bird's-eye view. The black and white snap is a shot of the area in 1963 before the Chinese University was established; it gives a feeling of quiet isolation. (photo courtesy of the Chinese University)

The Chinese University leans against the mountains, so leg power is still essential for making it to class.

The Chinese University stop is the gateway to the school.

Does this campus look like a park, or what? The photo shows the lake at the Chung Chi College.

The 40th anniversary of the New Asia College drew a gaggle of scholars together. The man in the scholar's gown is the renowned sinologist Chien Mu, a founding professor of the college, come back from Taiwan to offer congratulations.

Chinese University-ites say that the plaza at the main campus is "regal." What do you think?

Everyone reached for their umbrellas when an uninvited guest--the rain--showed up halfway through the dinner.

Students and faculty solemnly convene a dinner; this was a major part of the New Asia anniversary celebrations.

Only two percent of high school students in the Hong Kong area can pass the exam into university, so you can guess how "precious" the Chinese University students are.

Has the shadow of 1997 come to the Chinese University? Undoubtedly it has.

Does this campus look like a park, or what? The photo shows the lake at the Chung Chi College.

The Chinese University leans against the mountains, so leg power is still essential for making it to class.

The Chinese University stop is the gateway to the school.

Chinese University-ites say that the plaza at the main campus is "regal." What do you think?

The 40th anniversary of the New Asia College drew a gaggle of scholars together. The man in the scholar's gown is the renowned sinologist Chien Mu, a founding professor of the college, come back from Taiwan to offer congratulations.

Students and faculty solemnly convene a dinner; this was a major part of the New Asia anniversary celebrations.

Students and faculty solemnly convene a dinner; this was a major part of the New Asia anniversary celebrations.

Has the shadow of 1997 come to the Chinese University? Undoubtedly it has.

Only two percent of high school students in the Hong Kong area can pass the exam into university, so you can guess how "precious" the Chinese University students are.