The former appearance of Taiwan’s cities can be revisited through old images, which to some extent become a source of cultural remembrance.

In 1871, photographer John Thomson (1837–1921) from Edinburgh, Scotland heard Formosa described by the leader of the Presbyterian Church in Taiwan, James Laidlaw Maxwell (1836–1921), so he decided to visit. The name “Formosa” is said to have been given to Taiwan by Portuguese sailors who dubbed it Ilha Formosa—“beautiful island.”

The 2015 Megaport Festival forum was held in the Pier-2 Art Center. (photo by Cheng Nai-hua)

Early images

Thomson captured many precious images of early Taiwan with his camera, mainly in and around Kao­hsiung and Tai­nan, which today represent the earliest photographic records of the island.

Thomson visited Taiwan three times. He landed at Da­gou Harbor (now Ha­ma­xing in the Gu­shan District of Kao­hsiung City) and took the first known photographs of Taiwan. Then he traveled north to visit Fu­cheng (now in the An­ping District of Tai­nan City), and made a photographic record of Fort Zeelandia. Then, accompanied by Maxwell, Thomson continued deep into the mountains, passing Zuo­zhen in Tai­nan, and Mu­zha, Jia­xianpu, the Lao­nong River, and Liu­gui in Kao­hsiung (today known as Nei­men, Qi­shan, Mei­nong, Jia­xian, and Liu­gui).

The roads through the hills and valleys were rugged 140 years ago and travel conditions very harsh. On his many trips, Thomson met the plains Aborigines, mainly the Si­raya and Ma­katto groups, who were recorded in his notes as being simple, hospitable, warmhearted, honest and sincere.

A Bach concert under way in the Kaohsiung MRT’s Formosa Station. (photo by Cheng Nai-hua)

From Dagou Harbor to Hamaxing

Hamaxing is one of the oldest regions in Kao­hsiung. The name is a transliteration of the Japanese Ha­ma­sen (“coastal lines”), referring to the two very busy railroad lines that used to run to Kao­hsiung Harbor. Today, those living on Qi­jin Island have to either travel through the harbor tunnel to Xiao­gang District, or take the ferry if they want to go downtown. The joy of watching a beautiful sunrise or sunset from the ferry is a constant in the lives of Kao­­hsiung commuters, and a blessing considered romantic by visitors.

The southern part of the old Ha­ma­xing coastal railway line has been transformed into the Kaohsiung Railway Cultural Park by the city’s Bureau of Cultural Affairs. The park’s southern end is next to Kaohsiung Harbor wharves and the Pier-2 Art Center, always packed with visitors on weekends and holidays. The park includes the old Kao­hsiung Harbor Station—Kao­hsiung’s first railway station—which now houses the Takao Railway Museum. The museum is close to Si­zih­wan Station, the MRT orange route terminal, making it very easy to get to.

The Ha­ma­xing area is surrounded by many attractions including Xi­zi­wan, a favorite spot for viewing the sunset; the former British Consulate and the official residence of the British Consul at Ta­kao; and the Wude Temple Bu­to­ku­den (martial arts hall), built in a Japanese architectural style.

The Kaohsiung Railway Cultural Park in Hamaxing is home to the Takao Railway Musuem, housed in Kaohsiung’s earliest train station, the old Kaohsiung Harbor Station.

Arts in the Yancheng District

The sea is the final destination for all rivers; the sea is great and immense, accepting all who come to her. A city can also be great in accepting all comers, and can create a diverse and common historical remembrance. Kao­hsiung is such a city, one fortunate enough to possess a profoundly diverse cultural heritage.

Immigration has always been a key feature of the port city of Kao­hsiung, with Ha­ma­xing and Yan­cheng among the earliest immigrant areas.

Yancheng District is second only to Ha­ma­xing as the earliest development in Kao­hsiung. In Jue­jiang (a part of Yan­cheng), the old complex network of streets has been preserved. Visiting an old-fashioned cafe, chatting to its ancient owner about the history of the city and the rise and fall of Kao­hsiung’s industry—these are rich resources for those interested in maintaining history and culture.

The Thirty-Eighty Hostel on Wufu 4th Road, formerly a wedding salon founded in 1959, is now run by its third-generation owner Qiu Cheng­han. Qiu returned to Kao­hsiung from Tai­pei about three years ago to renovate his grandmother’s old business into a more artistic style. Although the building’s exterior is simple compared to others on the once bustling main streets of Yan­cheng, it is well regarded by the young and trendy.

Another Kaohsiung native playing an active part in the city’s transformation is a man by the name of Xie Yi­lin. Xie is an advisor to the Ta­kao Renaissance Association, and is one of the owners of TakaoBooks.

Founded only two years ago as Kao­hsiung’s first independent bookstore, Ta­kao­Books has become one of the city’s best known venues. The bookstore selects and recommends quality books for its customers, holding events such as celebrity evenings, discussions and storytelling. Customers are led to feel very much at home regardless of whether they’re buying or just browsing and chatting.

Shedding their old identity, these warehouses have become Pier-2 Art Center, an arts precinct and cultural base.

Transforming old warehouses

Macaca, born in the 1990s in Nan­tou County, is the owner of 72 Style Design Studio. After graduating from university in Kao­hsiung, Ma­caca decided to stay there to work, renting as his studio a 40-year-old house in an alley off Xin­tian Road near the Han­shin business district, where he often works late into the night preparing briefs for customers. Ma­caca has become involved in a number of major cultural activities including the Kao­hsiung Design Festival, and as a devotee of his adopted city, this year he has rented a second office in Da­gou­ding, Yan­cheng District.

The Pier-2 Art Center at the end of Da­yong Road in Yan­cheng is currently one of the most popular venues for the young arts crowd. The center was originally a warehouse built in 1973 on Pier 2 at the port.

While the center started in the Da­yong warehouse area, in recent years it has gradually expanded to Dayi warehouse at the end of the Dayi Road, and Peng­lai warehouse on Qi­xian Road. As an arts platform and cultural/creative base, the complex is still getting under way.

Kaohsiung has transformed itself enormously since the Love River was cleaned up at the end of the last century, and in this century, the construction of the MRT has been a significant symbol of the city’s progress. This constantly evolving ocean-side city has founded its future on its old tales and stories, and continues to display the incredible energy that has made it the largest and most vital city in southern Taiwan.

A major cleanup of the Love River has boosted tourism in Kaohsiung.

Once predominantly an industrial city, Kaohsiung has transformed its image with an injection of arts.

Managed by the city's Bureau of Cultural Affairs, the Pier-2 Art Center runs the Kaohsiung Design Festival, Art Kaohsiung and various other artistic events.

TakaoBooks has brought a touch of culture to this old building. (photo by Cheng Nai-hua)

The Qijin ferry provides an essential service for residents as well as for visitors intent on experiencing the charm of Kaohsiung.