Perhaps Matsu's power is simply too magnetic, or the worshippers are too electrified. Either way, the four top hopefuls for the next presidential election all seize the occasion to make appearances, mingling not a little atmosphere of political competition into the incense wafting through the air.
At midnight on April 18, tens of thousands of worshippers gather before the statue of Matsu at the Chenlan Matsu Temple in Tachia, Taichung County, preparing to embark on an eight-day, seven-night procession with the over-200-year-old statue.
According to custom, this year's Matsu procession features a seven-step progression of ceremonies: 1) the palanquin is raised and carried to Hsinkang Village's Fengtien Temple; 2) the statue spends the night at Fengtien Temple as temple officers and other faithful join in the recitation of sutras; 3) blessings are made wishing Matsu a long life; 4) an incense burner and joss are transported with the icon from Fengtien Temple back to Tachia; 5) worshippers picked for the honor place joss sticks in the Fengtien Temple incense burner at a predetermined point along the return procession route; 6) worshippers line the streets to welcome the icon back to Tachia; 7) and finally the Chenlan Temple doors are locked as joss sticks taken from Fengtien Temple are placed and lit in all the incense burners on the temple grounds.
Just like last year, the afternoon before the palanquin is raised Vice President Lien Chan does the honor of seating the icon in the palanquin. At this time, it begins to rain, in perfect agreement with the legend that it always rains on Matsu's birthday.
With Matsu settled in her ride, a series of evening folk performances begin. At this time, other prominent political figures begin to arrive. First is former Democratic Progressive Party chairman Hsu Hsin-liang, who will make offerings to the goddess and remain there to accompany her on her procession, setting out on his "journey of contemplation." Hsu, who is considering resigning from his party to make an independent bid for the presidency, will quietly reflect on his relationship with the DPP during the procession, perhaps resulting in a momentous decision. Just after Hsu Hsin-liang's offering to Matsu, the incense suddenly begins to flame with terrific gusto, a sign deemed auspicious by Hsu's aides.
Following Hsu Hsin-liang's acts of devotion, former Taipei mayor Chen Shui-bian-another presidential hopeful-and current Taichung mayor Chang Wen-ying arrive successively. The two entourages brush shoulders in the office of Chenlan Temple director Yen Ching-piao, but in the heated atmosphere Hsu and Chen exchange no pleasantries.
As midnight approaches, former Taiwan provincial governor James Soong arrives. Soong, Yen Ching-piao and this year's "custodian of the joss," Chen Chi, each light off a chain of firecrackers and Matsu is seated in the palanquin, ready to embark on her eight-day procession. As two years ago Yen Ching-piao was elected speaker of the Taichung County Assembly shortly after doing the honors of lighting the opening firecrackers, having James Soong set off the opening round this year naturally elicited a great deal of speculation concerning the upcoming presidential election.
In addition to the four top contenders for the next presidency, provincial government chairman Chao Shou-po, Taichung County executive Liao Yung-lai, and Chiayi County executive Lee Ya-ching all join in the celebrations. Leading up to this year's Matsu procession, most people expected political figures to make appearances, as religious festivities and settings have long served as extensions of the political stage in Taiwan. Deputy Taichung County executive Liu Shih-fang stated succinctly, "Wherever there are people there are votes. Not to mention this being Taiwan's largest religious event!"
Given the distinct political flavor of this year's Matsu birthday celebrations, the media are out in force to report live with their multiple satellite trucks, causing serious congestion in front of the Matsu Temple.
Unfazed by the activities of political figures and the media buzz, thousands upon thousands of Matsu worshippers cram into the temple grounds in the attempt to get as close as possible as the icon's palanquin is raised. After the bearers hoist her up onto their shoulders, crowds of people struggle to get close enough to touch the icon. Movement is nearly impossible in the sea of humanity until Matsu's sacred palanquin exits the area and the crowd finally begins to thin out.
Over the next eight days and seven nights, many devout believers continue to make the pilgrimage with Matsu, some on foot the entire way, and others following along on bicycles, motorcycles, or in cars. The procession continues until the joss is brought back to the Tachia Chenlan Temple from the Fengtien Temple in Hsinkang, signaling the end of the annual celebrations.
With participation in the festivities setting new records each year, the Taichung County government planned a series of cultural activities this year, as well as promoting a "clean the coast" environmental campaign. As a further gesture, a local specialty, Tachia pastry cakes, were renamed "Matsu cakes," turning the Matsu pilgrimage into a major local tourist attraction.
Ultimately, whether the goddess Matsu prefers her birthday to be treated as a tourist attraction or political resource remains a mystery.
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The annual procession of the Tachia Matsu celebrating the Sea Goddess's birthday is the biggest event of the year for Taiwan's Daoist community. A tradition for over a century, the event grows more exciting every year. Building on this trend, the Taichung County government decided to expand the birthday festivities into one big cultural and tourist festival. (photo by Yeh Ming-yuan, GIO)
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Vice President Lien Chan presided over the opening ritual of seating the Matsu icon on the palanquin, setting the stage for plenty of political maneuvers by the favorites in next year's presidential election. (photo by Yeh Ming-yuan, GIO)
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Brightly burning incense is looked upon by the faithful as a sacred sign. The urn glowed brightly just after Hsu Hsin-liang, the former Democratic Progressive Party chairman who is deciding whether to pursue an independent presidential candidacy, paid his respects to the icon. Hsu and his aides interpreted it as an auspicious sign. (photo by Yeh Ming-yuan, GIO)
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