The art of embroidery is deeply interwoven into the Chinese cultural tapestry. One of the most delicate of folk arts, embroidery has been used for the decoration of garments, both ecclesiastical and secular, of theater costumes, bed drapes, panels, carpets, gloves, shoes, purses and court fans. Favorite designs for Chinese craftsmen over the ages have been flowers, dragons, landscapes, and other animal and human figures, portrayed lovingly in a bewilderingly high number of complex stitches.
Embroidery is believed to date back to prehistoric times in China when people used crude patterns to stitch clothes together from skins. Based on a folk song entitled "The Waters of Yang," it is presumed there were embroidered court robes in use by the Chou Dynasty (1122-221 B.C.) During the period of the Warring States (403-222 B.C.) embroidery became popular and craftsmanship reached a peak of refinement. Through the Han, Tang and Ming Dynasties, every kind of thread was used, including hair and leather, but wool and silk were the most popular because of the ease with which they can be dyed. Thread is also employed to attach decorative objects to fabric, including plant seeds, shells, buttons, pearls and fragments of mirrors. Using these diverse materials, craftsmen were able to embroider sophisticated designs such as landscapes on linen to be hung on the wall.
Experts agree that in the rich and elaborate heritage of Chinese art, embroidery holds a special place because it combines the essence of classical painting and calligraphy into one. Although every province has its own specialty in the art, embroidery done in Hunan is regarded as being the most exquisite. Its fame rests on its combination of delicate natural appearance and good balance achieved through the use of a brilliant match of thread and stitching. In ancient times, much amateur embroidery was done by girls aged six or seven, who practiced the art day after day in their homes. In fact, embroidery was the only form of art whose execution was entrusted to females in ancient China, which undoubtedly accounts for much of its excellence. The changed conceptions in female education and the imports of printed cloth from the West have almost led to the extinction of this high-quality embroidery.
Fortunately, a few elderly women from the mainland have preserved the precious folk art. An example is Mrs. Kao, who has spent almost 30 years developing the Hunan-style embroidery. She emphasized that the essentials in making high-quality embroidery are good eyesight, nimble fingers, extreme care and patience and good judgment of matching colors. A happy development recently has been that some young people have come to realize the importance of preserving this folk art which has been handed down through the generations. During the switch in the social infrastructure from an agricultural to an industrial base, embroidery has proved to be a valuable stabilizing force in cultivating the mind and preserving the cultural heritage, while at the same time earning foreign exchange for the country.
