Flavors of the Sea

Aquaculture has a long history in Taiwan, and milkfish were already being farmed here when the Dutch arrived in the 17th century. Over the centuries, Taiwan’s seafood farmers have arduously built aquaculture ponds and struggled with the elements for their livelihoods. Moreover, the fishing industry has developed differently in different locations. In both northern and southern Taiwan, with their twisting rocky coastlines and closeness to natural fishing grounds, there are many fishing harbors large and small. By contrast, our West Coast is flat and prone to siltation, while the East Coast is steep and rocky, offering few suitable locations for harbors. Thus there are many fishing harbors in the north and south but relatively few in the east and west.

As the larger environment has evolved, the focus of Taiwan’s inshore fishing industry has shifted from production to conservation, and fishing harbors have been transformed. For example, going from north to south along the coast of Yilan County, we see small fishing boats moored in harbors like Shicheng, Dali, Daxi, and Gengfang, while Wushi is focused on leisure and tourism and has become famous for whale watching and seafood dining, and Su’ao services medium-­sized and large fishing vessels. As the concept of sustainable fisheries has gained traction internationally in recent years, fishing methods such as set-net fishing are attracting increasing attention.

Fishing harbors are a starting point for engaging with the ocean, and offer a window on local fishing industries. From the types of harbors and vessels, and the economic value of the catch, one can gain insights into the state of local fishing industries and the lives of their communities. With this in mind, this month we explore Taiwanese fisheries, from mahi-­mahi and billfish to milkfish and oysters. The next time you visit a fishing harbor or fishing community, as you buy seafood you should also ask: What kind of catch is sold here? Is it wild or farmed? Was it caught inshore, offshore, or in distant waters? Such questions can enhance your knowledge and understanding of Taiwan and the seas around it.

In this issue we also visit Taiwan’s longest river—the Zhuoshui—and bring you reports on the colorization of old photographs, the 2023 SDGs Asia exhibition, the past and present of Kee­lung’s Heping Island, and more. The articles about seafood and fisheries will enrich your perspective, for fishing harbors are not merely industrial workplaces, but also bastions of marine recreation and knowledge. As island dwellers, if we want to understand and embrace the sea, fishing harbors are a good place to start.