The View from the Sea:

The language of ancient geology

Our first landmark is Bitou Cape (Bitoujiao), which means “Nose Cape.” That is its name on the map, but when viewed from the sea it looks like a warship rising out of the ocean, so it is no wonder that local fishermen call it “Battleship Rock.”

This promontory at Taiwan’s northeastern tip is the first place on the island to bear the brunt of the northeasterly monsoon. Erosion by wind and water has carved out its sheer sea cliffs, platforms, terraces, caves, and trenches. It is testimony to the uncanny craftsmanship of nature.

Rounding Bitou Cape, our vessel continues along the coastline to Longdong Cape. Although separated only by Longdong Bay, the two capes were formed in very different geological eras. Guo Chen-meng, honorary chairman of the Taiwan Ecotourism Association, explains that the largest fault line in northeastern Taiwan runs through the seabed under Longdong Bay, separating the two large fault zones on each side. Longdong Cape is an outpost of the Xueshan Mountain Range, with a geological age of 36 million years, while Bitou Cape is part of the Western Foothills, which are only about 6 million years old. Who would have thought that two sides of the same bay could be tens of millions of years apart? Thanks to our vantage point on the boat, we can view their different geological patterns in detail.

Locals use small boats to transport visitors to various reefs, which have nicknames such as “Reef 200,” “Reef 300,” and “Reef 400” based on the prices charged, according to distance, to reach these marine venues that have no formal addresses.

Come to the life-nurturing ocean of northeastern Taiwan and admire the coast from a new perspective while also experiencing the local energy.

No addresses at sea

Next to millions of years of geological activity, humans seem minuscule. However, one cannot but feel respect on hearing how local people coexist with the ocean. During our voyage, guide Double Pon points to coral reefs ahead and calls them “Reef 200,” “Reef 300,” and “Reef 400.” These mysterious designations actually refer to the price of being transported out to these places by local residents. That’s a fun fact!

On the ocean, with no signage to tell you where you are, locals making a living along the rugged coastline have developed a naming system for coral reefs based on their uses, appearance, and the species active around them, with designations such Foot Bath Basin and Sparrow Rock. In this way the coast is labeled and remembered.

The coast from the bay near Hemei Elementary School to Longdong Cape is a popular spot for rock fishing and rock climbing, giving rise to numerous informal place names. For example, in the rock fishing area there are a number of fingers of rock that project out into the sea, known as “Branch One,” “Branch Two,” “Branch Three” and so on. Meanwhile, rock climbers talk about places such as “School Gate,” “Clock Tower,” “Concert Hall,” “Auditorium,” and “Back Gate,” with the abundance of school-related names being due to the fact that this place is seen as a natural classroom for the sport.

When one looks at this land from the sea, these names appear natural and reflect the local energy. For locals, the marine coast has never been a “tourist landscape,” but a part of their everyday experiences.

From a boat at sea one gets a panoramic view of the geology and signs of human activity on the shore, while enjoying spectacular views of bright sky and shimmering water.

Looking at the Northeast Coast from the ocean, one can see various rock strata in formations that look like layered pastry.