The Northern Cross-Island Highway Diary

August 8th: In order to save some time we decided to take this trip by car. Later we discovered another advantage of travelling this way: since the highway follows the course of the Tahan River, travelling it takes you through forests and spreading valleys, and across clear mountain streams. In a car, you can stop any time you want, get out, and really enjoy the scenery.

In Tachi we bought some of the town's famous dried tofu. They say the water that makes the tofu taste so good will also give a beautiful complexion to any girl who regularly washes her face with it. After waiting out the midday sun, we set out again, and arrived in Fuhsing Village. We left our bags in the hostel, and then set out for Chiaobanshan Park. As soon as I entered the park I could feel my senses come alive. I walked along a small path, looking at the various types of plants and trees running along its borders, and listening to the chirping and buzzing of the insects. The air seemed to be alive too. Later, sitting in a small pavilion watching the bamboo wave in the cool breeze, I thought "How can air-conditioning in Taipei compare with this?"

Around 4:30 we descended from the Hsikou suspension bridge to a ferryboat moored below it. On board, I imagined that travelling down the Yangtze River would be similar to the trip I was taking, and I recalled some lines from a poem by the Tang dynasty poet Chen Tzu-ang: "I watch the hawks and cranes, singing as they dance across the sky." As we made our way down streams, the river's green water and white waterfalls became a painting before my eyes. Around us fishing boats moved slowly as the fishermen hauled in their nets. Only the sight of a plastic bottle floating by reminded me that I was living in an industrial society.

We anchored in Amuping, and after making our way up to the road we caught a ride back to Fuhsing. For dinner I had a bowl of excellent mushroom noodles-- mushrooms are a specialty of the area--for only NT$50.

August 9th: Paling is beautiful at night, although it has nearly been ruined by businessmen and tourists. I sauntered for awhile along the village's single street, which was filled with street vendors, their plastic mats spread out side by side. Groups of teenagers and children walked among them, buying cosmetics, clothing, jewelry, food, and so on. Such vendors have brought many modern products to such out-of-the-way places as this; but I noticed that the quality of most of the products was very low, especially the cosmetics.

Further down the street, some tourists were singing karaoke songs together, while others danced to the music. Couldn't they do this somewhere else? I thought. Why disturb such a peaceful mountain village with this kind of pollution? Besides this small disappointment, however, I passed a very happy day.

The next morning at seven we set out for the Hsiaowulai waterfalls. These falls are located in a restricted mountain area, entrance into which requires a Type B entry permit. From the pavilion over looking the falls, I was struck by the beauty of their clear-blue water, and I noticed that the falls, enveloped in spray, took on a transcendent quality. Our next stop was the Lungku (Dragon Valley) falls. While some of the group went swimming, I sat on a rock and watched the falls. The sun was cool, and the sound of the rushing water drowned out other noises. I felt that if I didn't have to eat again, I would never leave.

That afternoon, as we drove along the highway, I fell asleep. I awoke to see an interesting scene unfolding by the road side. Two aboriginal men were erecting a wooden building, apparently his own home. Lying on the ground inside was a small child sucking on a milk bottle. Two other children were playing on a swing nearby. Their father had probably brought them along so that he could keep an eye on them while he worked, and then built the swing to keep them from getting bored.

August 10th: This morning I went to a primary school to watch a group of girls from Paling perform folk dances, and was so attracted by their dancing that I couldn't help but follow along behind them. They dance together as a group, but each dancer can express her own individuality through their common movements. It was really something to watch!

Later we ate in a small restaurant run by an old man from the mainland. When he heard that we wanted to buy peaches, he not only told us how to select the best ones, but even came out onto the street with us and had his neighbors sell us their best. We also learned how to tell if a peach was ripe, by rolling it from hand to hand. After trying this for a while we found that, due to the thickness of the skin on their palms, men are not as good at doing this test as women are. Since we wouldn't be returning home for a day or two, we were sure to buy peaches that were not yet ripe-otherwise they would spoil on the way. After finishing our peach shopping, we got back in our car and headed for Mount Lala.

It became apparent to us as soon as we entered the parking lot that the Mount Lala forest was a very special natural park. It is said that even a short walk there is beneficial to your health, because of a certain fragrance the trees release. I, how ever, felt it in the clean air itself. One breath, and I felt healthier!

The forest is full of Chinese juniper, including 22 "giants." It is forbidden to chop down trees on the mountain, unless they have already been killed by natural causes. Even the wood for structures inside the forest has been brought in from other areas.

I wandered for awhile among the great junipers. I read on one of the information boards which stand next to the trees that its branches had never been cut open. How then, I wondered, could they know the age of the trees? Later I found out: A drill is used to take an approximately ten-centimeter core sample from the base of a trunk. From counting the number of rings in this section, an estimate can be made of the age of the whole tree.

After passing tree No. 4 (all of the giant junipers are numbered), I took a path up to where I could view the whole area of great junipers. Here I came across a very special bridge which, though made of reinforced concrete, was the color of mud, and was wrapped with willow boughs, making it fit in very well with the sur roundings. Nearby was another special structure, a lavatory whose toilets were flushed with natural spring water. It was, needless to say, very clean.

The largest of the junipers has a circumference of over 18 meters, and is almost 1,900 years old. However, it is not the oldest of the trees--another one is 2,800 years old. Standing before it, I could not help but feel a certain respect for such an old tree.

Tomorrow we return home. All in all, it's been a great trip. In fact, the only real trouble was staying up late every night to write this!

[Picture Caption]

Viewed from a distance, the Hsikou suspension bridge appears as wispy as a reed.

(Above) Bamboo shoots are everywhere to be found along the northern Cross-Island High way.

(Below) As the ferries head homewards, the setting sun transforms the Tahan River into a scene of burnished gold.

Sitting on a rock along the Yunei River is like stepping into a painting.

Once development of Hsiaowulai is completed, it will no longer be a restricted mountain area.

There's plenty of good fishing under the Lungku waterfalls.

A clear Paling morning has an otherworldly beauty.

The faces of these children from Paling are as round and red as little peaches.

Walking along a forest path like this, you can feel the cleansing effect of the woods.

Mount Lala is a protected natural area, so chopping trees is prohibited. These men are sawing deadwood.

What's this? This is what it looks like when you stand at the foot of one of the giant junipers at Mount Lala.

Northern Cross-Island Highway Scenery(West Section)[Picture]

（Above） Bamboo shoots are everywhere to be found along the northern Cross-Island High way.

（Below） As the ferries head homewards, the setting sun transforms the Tahan River into a scene of burnished gold.

Sitting on a rock along the Yunei River is like stepping into a painting.

Once development of Hsiaowulai is completed, it will no longer be a restricted mountain area.

There's plenty of good fishing under the Lungku waterfalls.

A clear Paling morning has an otherworldly beauty.

The faces of these children from Paling are as round and red as little peaches.

Walking along a forest path like this, you can feel the cleansing effect of the woods.

Northern Cross-Island Highway Scenery（West Section）[Picture].

What's this? This is what it looks like when you stand at the foot of one of the giant junipers at Mount Lala.

Mount Lala is a protected natural area, so chopping trees is prohibited. These men are sawing deadwood.

The Chinese Naval Academy.