On ordinary days, Daxi’s Western-style archway façades and historic streets form the familiar backdrop of daily life. But when Guan Sheng Dijun’s birthday arrives on the 24th day of the sixth lunar month (aka Lunar June 24), it is as if the entire town has pressed a “transform” button.
As the sixth lunar month begins, everyone from vehicle-shop owners and assistant bank managers to furniture makers and noodle-shop assistants quietly take on another identity—members of shetou, Daxi’s local procession associations—without having to duck into a phone booth to change. By day, they do their regular jobs; by night, they pull on troupe uniforms and practice for the procession on the 24th. When the day arrives, some carry palanquins, some play beiguan music, some perform dragon dances, and some shoulder imposing giant deity costumes. Together they celebrate the birthday of Guan Sheng Dijun, whom locals affectionately call Shengdi Gong (and who is also known as Guan Yu and Guan Gong in Chinese and as Lord Shengdi and Lord Guan, among other names, in English).