Bean Curd--The Chinese Taste Sensation

Chrissie Lu

December 1982

中文

Freshly made bean curd.

With the exception of rice, bean curd, or tofu, is probably the most popular food in China. Bean curd is not only inexpensive and high in nutrients, but also readily lends itself to all the many regional cuisines of China. Often when families sit down to eat there is at least one dish made from bean curd on the table.

Bean curd is made from soy beans, and northern China produces 80% of the world's total output. Soy beans are a big export item and also are a staple food.

Soft, white, bean curd has a delicate flavor all its own. When eaten alone, it is matchless for its cool and refreshing taste. It can also be used in any dish, and will blend in perfectly while still retaining its own unique flavor.

In Kiangsu there is a saying, "Bean curd is better to eat than meat. It is both economical and nutritious." According to scientific analysis, bean curd is chiefly composed of protein, vegetable fat, amino acids, and many vitamins. In addition, it contains more protein than any other vegetable food and is even higher in protein than many types of meat. An additional benefit is that bean curd is low in cholesterol, so it is perfect for those who suffer from arteriosclerosis, heart disease, high blood pressure, or diabetes. Dieters also enjoy bean curd as it is low in calories.

Legend has it that bean curd was invented by Liu An during the rule of Emperor Hsiao Wen of Han in approximately 200 BC. Soon it spread far and wide over northern China and by Tang times had even reached Japan, Korea, and Southeast Asia. Times have changed, yet interest in bean curd has never waned. Today there are many different types of bean curd. The most popular are tender bean curd, aged bean curd, dried bean curd, and of course, smelly bean curd--the Limburger of Chinese cuisine.

Bean curd, itself, can be used as the main ingredient of many dishes. Some of the more popular varieties include Ma Po's Bean Curd, Hakka Stuffed Bean Curd, Family Style Bean Curd, and Braised Bean Curd.

The first step in bean curd production is selection of the beans. Currently almost all of the soy beans used in the Republic of China are purchased from the U.S. Hsu Hsun of the Council for Agricultural Planning and Development explained, "Most of the farms in Taiwan are small, and there is no way to use large-scale mechanized farming methods. Therefore the cost of producing soy beans is high, even higher than imports."

After selection, the beans are then soaked in water. When the weather is hot, they are soaked for about four hours and when it is cold, for seven or eight. There is no standard time, and beans are soaked until they are judged ready for grinding. Afterwards they are made into soy bean milk by boiling and filtering the ground beans.

The next step is the most critical in bean curd production. A catalyst is added to the soy bean milk to make it congeal--add too much and it turns hard, too little and it will not congeal. Congealed soy bean milk is then pressed into molds, forcing out the water; the result is bean curd.

Today, most bean curd processing is still done on a small scale. Little modern equipment is used, and there are no strict production standards. Bean curd is still produced in very much the same way that it always has been.

However, for a number of reasons bean curd production methods are being modernized. One of the main factors is manpower. Traditionally bean curd is made between the hours of 10 p.m. and 2 a.m. so that it will be fresh for the morning markets. Now though, it is getting difficult to find workers who are willing to work these hours.

Ten years ago a machine-made bean curd did appear on the market, but for a number of reasons, including flavor, smell, and shape, it did not fare well. Recently however, a group of bean curd producers pooled their resources and started the ROC's first fully automated bean curd factory, the Heng Yi Foods Co. The bean curd is made scientifically and according to stringent standards. For instance, soaking time and boiling temperatures are all strictly controlled.

Wang Tsuo-chang, chairman of the Heng Yi Co., commented that so far the response has been good. Every day they process 12,000 kilos of beans, sending processed bean curd to markets and supermarkets all over the island. Wang feels people are now more receptive to frozen foods, and as more women are entering the work force, they do not have a great deal of time to spend shopping and cooking.

Bean curd, whether hand made or machine produced, sold fresh at the market or frozen in a supermarket, is still bean curd. lts position as a major ingredient in Chinese cuisine is as firm as ever. As long as there is a China there will be bean curd.

[Picture Caption]

1. Freshly made bean curd. 2. Soy beans must be soaked before they can be made into bean curd. 3. The residue left after filtering ground soy beans can also be used in making other foods. 4-5. Steps in processing bean curd: Putting congealed soy bean milk into molds (4). A 30 kilo stone is used to press the water out (5) and half an hour later the bean curd is ready.

1. Bean curd and a type of processed bean curd, soy bean cheese. 2-5. Ways in which bean curd can be eaten: 2. A soup made with bean curd, bean sprouts, pork chop, and tomato. 3. Liang Pan Bean Curd. 4. Pi Tan Bean Curd. 5. Hakka Stuffed Bean Curd.

1&6. Two famous dishes made with bean curd: 1. Bean Curd Dumplings; 6: Hunanese Bean Curd. 2&4. Bean curd with some of the many things that can be made from it: dried bean curd, bean curd skin, oily bean curd, dried bean curd strips. . . . 3. Chilled congealed soy bean milk (tou hwa) topped with peanuts and sugar water is a real treat in the summer. 5. Bean curd and its by-products are big sellers in the market.