In the Republic of China, when a guest arrives at a home or restaurant, the first thing he is offered is a cup of tea. At meetings among friends or businessmen, tea is usually served.
Scarcely anything evokes the image of China more than the word "tea." The Chinese have been drinking tea for thousands of years, supposedly since its discovery by Shen Nung, a mythical ruler of China, around 2737 B.C. as he was testing herbs.
The habit of tea drinking was well entrenched by the Tang dynasty around the first part of the 9th century, after ways to practice it were introduced in Cha Chin (Tea Classics) by Lu Yu. During the Sung dynasty, the habit of tea drinking was cherished by nobility and commoners alike. Since then, tea has become an indispensable part of the daily life of the Chinese people.
When immigrants from the two provinces of Fukien and Kwangtung on the China mainland came to Taiwan, they brought tea seeds with them. From this small beginning, the vast tea plantations on the island have grown.
Hillsides and valleys which are moist all the year round, are ideal for growing tea. The largest concentrations of the crop are in the northern and eastern counties of Ilan, Taipei, Taoyuan, Hsinchu, Miaoli, Nantou, Taitung and Hualien where the climate is particularly suitable.
After the government of the Republic of China moved to Taiwan in 1949, it assisted tea farmers to improve plantation and management techniques and pest control. Loans were also extended for purchases of fertilizer and equipment, and specialized districts for tea production and processing were established to facilitate mechanized operations. A tea improvement station at Taoyuan has increased new strains and improved quality in general.
Last year, about 80 percent of Taiwan's tea production, amounting to 27,000 tons was exported. Tea in Taiwan can be divided into four categories: the unfermented green tea, fully fermented black tea, semifermented Oolong tea, and 30-40 percent fermented Pouchong tea. Pouchong tea is particularly noted for its high quality.
Since the introduction of processing and manufacturing techniques for Pouchong tea from Fukien province in 1881, the Wenshan district of Taipei County and Luku and Mingchien villages in Nantou County have become the most important production areas in Taiwan.
With proper care, cultivation and management, tea seedlings take three years to reach maturity. Of the six harvests which can be gathered each year, the one in spring is most suitable for making Pouchong tea.
Late morning and early afternoon are the best times to pluck the tea, because the evaporation of the dew makes the leaves soft and sweet.
The fresh leaves must be dried under the sun before they are moved indoors. After stirring, the tea leaves start to ferment along the edges, while the central part remains unaffected. When the familiar aroma of tea has started to emanate from the leaves, they are heated to prevent further fermentation. After baking, the quality Pouchong tea is ready for sale.
As machines have gradually replaced manual labor to pluck and process tea, production volume and sanitary standards have been enhanced. Ordinary Pouchong tea is priced from US$11 to US$22 per pound, while the best quality can fetch as much as US$166 per pound.
Tea is a drink of many facets. It is said to sharpen the mind, soothe the spirit and relax the body, and the Chinese consider it part of the art of life
Even today, tea is often served in the traditional way, using a small pottery teapot and matching cups. Before use, tea vessels should be boiled for five minutes, and they should be warmed with hot water again before steeping the tea leaves. The water kettle should be held high and water poured slowly into the pot until the foam wells over, and is wiped away with the pot lid. This brew, however, is not for drinking, and is poured out into a bowl.
The pot is again filled with hot water, and the brew allowed to stand for about 30 seconds. A little tea is poured into each cup in succession until all are full so that everyone gets the same quality of tea. There is even a prescribed way for handling the pot. Its handle is held between the thumb and middle finger, and the lid is secured with the index finger. The tea leaves can be used five or six times.
Of all the teas, Pouchong is among the most popular in Taiwan, and has a following overseas. Because of its high quality, its role in exports is expected to grow in the future.
[Picture Caption]
Machines (above) have gradually replaced manual labor (right) to pluck tea.
Left: Experts are invited to make an assessment of all types of tea. Below: Manufacturing tea bags.
Right: The traditional way of serving tea involves the use of a small teapot and matching cups. Opposite: Antique tea shops.
Machines （above） have gradually replaced manual labor （right） to pluck tea.
Machines （above） have gradually replaced manual labor （right） to pluck tea.
Experts are invited to make an assessment of all types of tea.
The traditional way of serving tea involves the use of a small teapot and matching cups.
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