Exploring Kaohsiung

Kaohsiung-A Five-Star Trip to a Five-Star City

The Ai River divides the landscape in two,

But the clouds say, it's spring casting shadows on the water.

The weather station says, no, it's summer.

Thus does Yu Kwang-chung, a poet who came to live here more than a decade ago describe the city he loves.

Kaohsiung has a tropical marine climate and is indeed the "city of summer." Set between mountains and sea, its straight roads are lined with coconut groves, the green fronds breaking the bright sunlight into thousands of brilliant rays, while the Ai River gently slips through the heart of the city.

Located in southern Taiwan, in the past Kaohsiung was generally considered warmhearted but not at all cosmopolitan. In the last two years, however, Kaohsiung seems to have had a complete makeover. The streets are clean and the Ai River has been cleaned up, so that one glimpse of it now draws people towards it, along with the city.

Kaohsiung, previously called Takao, has been a port for almost 150 years. An energetic people, residents throw themselves into whatever comes next, so although already Taiwan's second largest city, Kaohsiung is still rapidly developing. Spectacular new buildings vie to be tallest and even a short visit will open a whole new vista.

Change is reflected too in the growth and decline of popular sightseeing destinations; old favourites such as Chengching Lake and the Cultural Center no longer top the list, their place taken by Chichin Island, ideal for water recreation, and the revitalized Ai River. Recent years have seen northward migration and the construction of more high-rise buildings. Even Nantzu and Tsoying, districts once thought far from central Kaohsiung, have become a burgeoning cultural and tourist circuit, centered around Lotus Lake and including cultural essentials such as the historic "old city," Mt. Panping and the Museum of Fine Arts. A change even more obvious to the visitor's eye is the constant profusion of new malls and hotels.

The city has mountains, waterways, the sea, good shopping, an agreeable climate, sumptuous seafood, and an airport only ten minutes from the city center! Over the last two years a succession of five-star hotels have been enticing those living in the north of Taiwan to venture southwards to spend their holidays. They've introduced a whole range of package tours, and have arrangements with the airlines offering air transport and accommodation for just over NT$3,000.

You can enjoy a luxurious yet inexpensive five-star holiday without travelling overseas. This is a great way to have luxury weekend away from it all. We've designed three distinctive itineraries to visit the city. We highly recommend Kaohsiung to all our readers! l

Kaohsiung Fact File

Area: 153 square kilometers

Population: Nearly 1.5 million

Climate: The year-round average temperature is 24.4oC and the average annual rainfall is 1,810.3 millimeters. The rainy season is from May to October, but it doesn't rain every day.

Some brief historical details:

Kaohsiung was formerly called Takao.

In 1661, during the Yongli reign of the Qing dynasty, Zheng Chenggong, known in the West as Koxinga, expelled the colonial Dutch forces and established the Wannien county government here in the "old city" area of modern day Tsoying. The port was opened up by the Qing rulers in 1863 as a consequence of the Treaty of Peking (one of the "Unequal Treaties" which opened up treaty ports and provided bases for the expansion of foreign imperialism into China). An administrative office was set up at Chichin during the Japanese colonial occupation, and Kaohsiung Prefecture was established in 1920. Kaohsiung was incorporated as a city in 1945, and in 1979 was promoted to the status of a special municipality under the direct administration of the Executive Yuan. Kaohsiung is Taiwan's second largest city and its premier port.

Itinerary No. 1: A Quiet Romantic Getaway

Afternoon: Hsitzuwan Bay

Evening: Ai River

Overnight: Ambassador Hotel

Morning: Observing the monkeys at Takao Hill

Afternoon: Shopping at New Chueh Chiang, and Old Chueh Chiang

The Ambassador Hotel is lo-cated in an idyllic setting beside the Ai River, from where you get a bird's eye view downstream. It's an island of serenity in this bustling metropolis, and the outdoor swimming pool and sauna facilities provide a welcome relaxation for business travelers. Using this as our base, the first day we go to Hsitzuwan Bay to swim and watch the sunset. At night you can stroll along the Ai River and enjoy the evening scenery. Early next day we head to Takao Hill to observe the macaque monkeys, and in the afternoon we visit the import shops at New Chueh Chiang and Old Chueh Chiang. This is a romantic, low-key getaway for discerning travelers to savor. It lets you relax your mind and body, and indulge your senses.

Hsitzuwan Bay

Like the Ai River, Hsitzuwan Bay is one of Kaohsiung's natural icons, and its appeal never wanes. It has coral fossils and sandy beaches and is a favourite haunt of fishers and lovers. It is situated on the western side of Kaohsiung, with Mt. Shoushan to its north, and Kaohsiung Harbour and Chichin Island to the south.

The road leading to Hsitzuwan Bay is narrow but as soon as you reach the coastline, the scenery suddenly comes into view. You're greeted by the sight of a scenic outlook from where you can watch the sun set. It's a favorite spot for couples to meet at dusk. In the spaces between the fence posts, couples nestling in each other's arms watch the sun set from a world of their own.

After you come through the sentry post at National Sun Yat-Sen University, you find a long breakwater that is a dream fishing ground. From time to time there are reports of freak waves washing people into the sea, and the city government has erected a fence and posted signs strictly prohibiting fishing. But the fish are so abundant here that at almost any hour of night or day you can find large numbers of people on the breakwater ignoring the ban.

Heading further into the university campus you reach the distinctive university buildings with their red tiles, built at the foot of a hillside, and nearby is a beautiful beach. The Hsitzuwan Bay swimming beach run by the university is known far and wide. Hsitzuwan Beach is flat and relatively safe, with fine sand, excellent for swimming or just strolling. A sunrise dip or paddling in the shallows at sunset is quite idyllic.

The swimming beach is closed to the public each winter from November to April. Chilly northeast winds blow at that time of year, and the water is not at its best. But a supervisor tells us that three Kaohsiung early-morning swim associations are allowed access to the beach, and more than 400 swimmers go there each morning. So, if an icy swim appeals to you, head down to the beach around sunup, pay a NT$30 fee, and you'll be let in. Groups can also apply to use the beach facilities for various functions.

Leaving Hsitzuwan Bay, at an intersection where Kaohsiung Harbour flows into Hsitzuwan Bay is a profusion of seafood shops beside the water. It's really refreshing to sit by the harbor in the evening and eat while you watch the merchant vessels coming and going, close by.

Kaohsiung's Ai River ("Love River" in Chinese) has undergone numerous changes in its history and has had a love-hate relationship with the people of Kaohsiung. The river, which originates between Futingchin and Mt. Panping, and flows through Kaohsiung and into Kaohsiung Harbor, is just a dozen or so kilometers long. The oldest parts of Kaohsiung are situated along its banks and it has long been a place where local people go to relax. It's known all over Taiwan because of the many romantic love stories set here, and in days gone by, almost every photographic studio in Taiwan offered a scene of an arched bridge over the Ai River and luxuriant coconut palms as a backdrop for photos.

In the seventies the Ai River area thrived. Its "underground street" was a major shopping arcade, but it was subsequently destroyed by fire. The area then suffered a period of administrative neglect and deterioration, and a reputation for filth and bad pollution dogged this romantic waterway for a very long time. In the last two years, however, the city government has been very active in cleaning up and revitalizing the river. The central government held its national Lantern Day Festival here this year, and the resplendent scene of a river of lanterns recaptured the hearts of all Taiwanese.

Today, the authorities have developed more than 30 greenbelts along the river's banks. Going upstream from the harbor the first is a seaside park on the western bank, from where you can view the whole harbor. Jen-ai Park stretches from Kaohsiung Bridge on Wufu Road to Chienkuo Bridge, and has colored lights which complement a large fountain. At night the water spurts out in a beautiful red, yellow, green and blue display. Downstream from Chiuju Bridge is a major botanical garden. Sanmin No.1 and Sanmin No. 2 parks, downstream from Chihping Bridge on Chunghua Road, are the largest greenbelts along the riverside, winding tranquilly for 6.6 kilometers. They have the city's only dedicated bikepath. From Hoti Park, a community park on Mingcheng Road, you can view the stream of cars on the Tingchin bypass section of the 2nd southern freeway. There are also several other parks further upstream, still under construction.

You can visit the riverside parks at any time but they're particularly enjoyable and refreshing in the evening, or at night when there are fewer people around. The lights along the river sparkle and reflect in the water making the scene even more enchanting. It's very romantic.

Takao Hill

Takao Hill is what Kaohsiung people call the northwestern coastal slope of Shoushan mountain. Home to some 700 plant species, more than 60 bird species, nine mammal species, and more than 20 reptile species, not to mention countless species of insects, plants and animals not yet identified, it occupies a special place in the hearts of Kaohsiung environmentalists.

Takao Hill Park is a popular destination for Kaohsiung residents on holidays and days off. Recent years have seen a host of publications about Takao Hill's flora and fauna, and ecotourists can often be observed, a book in hand, on the paths there. Over the years, groups of Takao Hill's Formosan rock monkeys, a macaque species unique to Taiwan, have gradually moved down towards the base of the mountain as a result of being fed by visitors. This has attracted large numbers of visitors wanting to observe them.

Takao Hill currently has twelve macaque troupes. Their diet should consist mainly of plants, fruits, flowers, and various insects, but these days they'll eat anything, and their appetite for new things is growing. Hikers there frequently find themselves accosted by aggressive monkeys, which snatch away their plastic bags. Children often cry in fright after such encounters. The Kaohsiung City government constantly exhorts visitors not to feed them but the problem still continues. Confrontations between people and monkeys keep occurring, and people feeding them is contributing to ecological destruction. These rare animals are beginning to suffer hypertension.

If you'd like to observe them, we recommend going early in the morning when the monkeys are hungry and come out to eat, but you have to watch out for "bandit monkeys," lying in wait along the pathways to waylay you.

Old Chueh Chiang

Yencheng District has always had a very vibrant cosmopolitan tone. The Old Chueh Chiang commercial quarter there came to prominence when American sailors were stationed in Kaohsiung in the sixties. At that time Chihsien 3rd Road was infamous for its bars, and romantic liaisons with the foreigners blossomed. But this period also left in its wake many fatherless children. After the Americans pulled out, in their place came a new wave of crews from the foreign ships visiting port, and bars and nightclubs sprang up overnight to cater to them. Since Kaohsiung port operations relocated further south, sailors no longer congregate here. Instead, the bars on Wufu 4th Road are now frequented by foreign engineers and traders. The area also attracts a lot of students keen to improve their English who find part-time jobs working in the bars. The latest phenomenon is a "Philippine Town" in the area around Chihsien 3rd Road and Chienkuo 4th Road. Filipino guest workers hang out here on weekends and go to Mass.

Because of its strong association with things foreign, Old Chueh Chiang has also become famous for its streets of import dealers, selling chiefly expensive brand-name clothes, leather goods, glasses, watches, and fashionable body and health care products, such as scented teas, fragrant essential oils, and Japanese foodstuffs. The economy might be in the doldrums, but afternoons and evenings you'll see crowds of young women and elegant ladies eager to buy name-brand consumer goods weaving their way through the import shops.

According to Sun I-chia, who established a leather goods store on Takung Road, in former days the imports sold in Old Chueh Chiang mostly arrived sporadically, depending on the suppliers. With the gradual increase in Taiwan's domestic consumption in recent years, dealers are now air-freighting in large shipments of goods of every description and handling the customs angle. Japanese goods lead sales, followed by European and American goods. Prices are generally 20% to 30% lower than in the department stores. Another plus is that the import shops always keep abreast of the very latest trends on the international scene.

Most of the businesses have a regular clientele. They don't open till midday and a majority stay open till late at night to cater to the many doctors who finish work late. Sun I-chia recommends shopping carefully before settling on something, and equipping yourself with some basic knowledge of name-brand items, so as not to be 'had' and end up buying imitations or paying too much. There's no limit to how far prices can be beaten down. It all depends on just how well you can bargain.

New Chueh Chiang

Another shopper's paradise in the area bounded by Wufu 2nd Road, Chungshan 2nd Road, Hsintien Road and Wenheng Road, is New Chueh Chiang. Generally considered Kaohsiung's answer to Hsimenting in Taipei, it originally rose to prominence because of the old President Department Store. New Chueh Chiang also offers mainly importers, specialty shops and boutiques, selling clothes, jewelry, glasses, leather goods, toys and novelties-anything you could possibly want. But in contrast to Old Chueh Chiang, this is where the teen and young twenties crowd likes to shop, and popular singing stars often perform and sign autographs here. Lu, a senior high school student who often comes here to wander round, warns that to shop in New Chueh Chiang you have to know how to haggle over prices, pointing out that the dealers know young people don't have much money so they're more prepared to negotiate.

Itinerary No. 2: Seashore Frolic

Afternoon: Santuo shopping district

Evening: Night view from an 85-floor skyscraper

Overnight: Grand Formosa Kaohsiung Hotel

2nd day: Day trip to Chichin Island

The international-class Grand Formosa Kaohsiung is located in the 85-story T&C Tower, the tallest building in Taiwan. Guests in this soaring structure leave the ground so far behind, they might be forgiven if they forget that they're even in Kaohsiung! Starting out from the Grand Formosa, the first stop is the shopping district along Santuo Road, where you'll find the very cosmopolitan Shin Kong Mitsukoshi, SOGO, FE21 Mega, and Chien Tai Department Store. We recommend an evening dinner at Grand Formosa's 85th-floor restaurant, followed by drinks at the bar, all the while enjoying a spectacular view of Kaohsiung Harbor and the city. Spend all the next day frolicking on Chichin Island. This a perfect itinerary for active young adults who love the water.

Santuo shopping district is the newest and fastest-growing shopping district in Kaohsiung. SOGO and Shin Kong Mitsukoshi, located near the traffic circle at the intersection of Santuo No. 3 Road and Chungshan No. 2 Road, are the first foreign department stores in Kaohsiung. It was the opening of these two stores that spurred a subsequent commercial renaissance in the district. Last year saw the opening of Chien Tai Department Store in T&C Tower and FE21 Mega on Chungshan Road. FE21 Mega, home to the Kaohsiung branch of Warner Village Cinemas, is the biggest outlet of the Far East Department Store chain, which in turn is the biggest-selling department store franchise in Taiwan.

It's about a ten-minute walk from one end of the shopping district to the other. In addition to the department stores, there are also many avant-garde hair salons, specialty shops, and cosmetics franchises. The shopping experience here is every bit as good as in Taipei's toney east side. The department stores, in a bid to attract customers, often host outdoor performances or invite singing stars and big-name athletes to come for autograph sessions on weekends and holidays. The crowds get pretty big, and it generally takes an entire afternoon to cruise the whole district. If you're not interested in shopping, you might find it fun to just sit in a chair on the plaza and do some people watching.

Liu Hsiang, a Taipei resident who often goes shopping in Kaohsiung, notes that sales in Kaohsiung are slower than in Taipei, yet they still provide a full selection of name brand clothes and accessories. These factors make Kaohsiung an excellent place to shop during price cutting season.

Night view from the T&C Tower

T&C Tower, the tallest building in Taiwan, has a 360-degree observation deck on the 75th floor. Visitors arrive on a direct elevator that zings along at speeds of up to 600 meters per minute. The trip from the ground floor to the 75th only takes 43 seconds, and feels a lot like a ride at an amusement park. The cost is NT$200 per person.

T&C Tower abounds with restaurants, all of which offer an outstanding view of the city, especially by night. There are also a hotel, a department store, entertainment facilities, and more. Due to flawed planning, however, the building's first-floor department store has already changed owners once, and the building as a whole doesn't have the lively, bustling atmosphere you find at other highrise buildings in Kaohsiung.

Other places to enjoy Kaohsiung's skyline include the Chang-Gu World Trade Center, the Linden Hotel, and the Asia Pacific Financial Plaza. The observation deck at the Grand Hanlai Hotel is an excellent spot to see the harbor and all of the city.

Chichin Scenic Area

Chen Shih-liang, a famous Kaohsiung architectural designer, enthuses, "Chichin has infused Kaohsiung with imagination!"

Chichin Island runs northwest to southeast, parallel to the southern edge of Kaohsiung. Measuring 8.5 kilometers long and 400 to 500 meters wide, no spot on the island is far from the water. Noting the pleasant atmosphere of the island, the Kaohsiung City Government has recently proposed to build a hospital there to give troubled people a natural environment in which to recover from the emotional maladies of modern life.

Most visitors to Chichin Island come here to enjoy the sea. The long coastline offers a variety of charming seascapes, Kaohsiung Harbor, sunrises, and sunsets. The island also features a swimming beach, a seashore park, a ferry terminal, a tunnel to the other side of the harbor, old Chihou Battery, and historic Matsu Shrine. Most visitors just play in the sand and sea, overlooking the historical nuggets entirely, which seems a shame.

Ferry and Harbor Tunnel

There are two ways to get to Chichin Island. Most visitors like to go over on the ferry, which cuts across Kaohsiung Harbor, but the ferry only carries passengers and motorcycles. Those traveling by car must take the Harbor Tunnel.

The ferry terminal on the Kaohsiung side is located at Gushan. A boat departs about once every ten minutes, and the ticket only costs NT$10. On Chichin Island, the busiest part of the island is at the northern tip near the ferry terminal. Located right nearby are the swimming beach, Seashore Park, and a warren of seafood restaurants across the street from Matsu Shrine, not to mention a swarm of street vendors every weekend. For those who want to get around slow and easy, three-wheeled pedicabs await near the ferry terminal. The seafood here is delicious, with just about every kind of fish and shell food imaginable. Visitors are advised to compare prices and check to see whether the seafood is fresh before selecting a restaurant. The cooking style doesn't vary much from one establishment to the next; it's all down-home Taiwanese cuisine.

The 1550-meter Harbor Tunnel connects to the southern tip of the island, farther away from the city center. Crossing under Kaohsiung Harbor, the tunnel was opened amidst considerable fanfare in 1984. It's about 30 minutes by car from downtown Kaohsiung to Seashore Park.

Chichin Seashore Park

Measuring some three kilometers in length, the park includes a swimming beach, a seaside nature path, a mountain-bike area, and a nature preserve. The swimming beach features crystal-clear water and soft sand that's a joy to walk on. The seaside nature path passes by a non-lifeguarded beach that is preferred by many visitors who don't care for crowds, but due to safety concerns, swimming here is not generally recommended.

Vegetation abounds along the seaside nature path, the mountain-bike area, and the nature preserve. Even under bright sunshine, there's a cool feeling amidst the verdure. Don't forget to breathe deep and take in the abundant phytoncides generated by the lush greenery of southern Taiwan!

Chihou Matsu Shrine

Chichin was the first part of Kaohsiung to be settled by early Chinese immigrants. It used to be called Chihou ("behind Chi") because of it's location relative to Mount Chi. Chichin is home to the oldest place of worship in Kaohsiung, Chihou Matsu Shrine. Originally built in 1673, it has been designated a Class 3 Historical Site.

Built in the style of temples in southern Fujian and Taiwan, the shrine features a model of the type of ship that is burnt every year in religious ceremonies in fishing villages in southern Fujian.

Chihou Battery

Chichin Island's Mt. Chihou commands the entrance to Kaohsiung Harbor, and once played an important defensive role. The first battery there was built during the reign of the Kangxi Emperor (1662-1722). Kaohsiung's importance grew in the latter decades of the Qing dynasty, and Taiwan's provincial governor Shen Baozhen hired a British engineer to install modern batteries at the northern and southern entrances to Kaohsiung Harbor. The cannon were removed during the Japanese colonial period, and the only thing left completely preserved today are the defense works of the southern battery on Mt. Chihou.

Old Chichin is just one part of historical Kaohsiung. If a visit to Chichin Island fails to quench your appetite for signs of the past, you might consider our next itinerary, which focuses on cultural and historical sites.

Itinerary No. 3: Snack on History, Gorge on Shopping

Afternoon: Hanshin Department Store, Isetan Department Store

Evening: Liuho Night Market, Hsinhsing Market

Lodgings: Hanlai Hotel

2nd day: Lotus Lake, Old Fengshan, Mt. Panping, Confucius Temple, Museum of Fine Arts, sculpture garden

Hanlai Hotel is described by many as the ultimate expression of "Kaohsiung style." The hotel features an ornate classical decor, and has been a big hit since the day it opened. Starting out from the Hanlai, spend the afternoon checking out the Hanshin Department Store (located in the same building) and the nearby Isetan Department Store. When evening falls, cruise Liuho Night Market, Kaohsiung's biggest collection of outdoor eateries, then head on over to Hsinhsing Market, known for its bargain-basement clothing. Next day, go to the city's north side to visit Lotus Lake, Old Fengshan, the Confucius Temple, and the Kaohsiung Museum of Fine Arts. This itinerary will give you a taste of both the old Kaohsiung and the new, always important for the traveler aiming for an in-depth understanding of the city.

Shopping at Hanshin and Isetan

The opening of the Hanshin Department Store six years ago created a lot of excitement in Kaohsiung. The building's high-class look attracted many famous private-label shops, but it also managed to blend in very well with the flavor of the local community, and soon an entire shopping district had sprung up in the area. Hanshin and Isetan are now linked by a bustling warren of boutiques, restaurants, and coffee shops lining either side of Hsintien Road. On the other side of Chungshan Road, in the meantime, is another shopping district anchored by the President Department Store.

Starting out from either Hanshin or Isetan, shop 'til you don't quite drop, recharge your batteries at one of the coffee shops on Hsintien Road, and continue on from there to hit whatever you haven't yet covered. It's an exciting shopping district that throws a surprise at you every time you turn a corner!

Liuho Night Market

This market is known for its great eats. It offers anything but haute cuisine, and there may be fewer customers than before the big earthquake of 1999, but the hungry visitor will find that the joy of stuffing yourself silly here hasn't diminished one iota. Au contraire, you can chow down at your leisure now that the crowds have thinned.

The Liuho Night Market is strung out along either side of Liuho Road No.2 on a stretch running just 300-plus meters between Chungshan First Road and Tzuli Road. The vendors there sell shaved ice and much more. Pretty much every stall and shop has been in business for ages. The salty dumplings are nice and chewy, and never stick to the roof of your mouth. The seafood in the rice congee is fresh from the harbor. The peanut-in-rice balls are made that same afternoon. And if you miss the eel spaghetti, you'll be missing a quintessential bit of southern Taiwanese cuisine. The eels are stir-fried together with noodles that have just been deep-fried in oil. Just the right touch of sweet and sour!

Livening up the atmosphere are stalls where you can play games or have your fortune told. It only costs NT$100 for one fortune telling session, which is extremely cheap. Do they tell it like it is? You'll just have to try it to find out.

Hsinhsing Market

Kaohsiung's oldest shopping district is centered on Chungcheng Road near the Central Post Office, about ten minutes from the Kaohsiung Railway Station.

Hsinhsing Market is open for business for a dozen or more hours every day, beginning in the morning. Hsinhsing Market is especially noted for its wide selection of clothing, personal accessories, cosmetics, and jewelry, with everything from the latest teen fashions to the tried-and-true items that find favor with the older matrons. The people of Kao-hsiung are in the habit of having everyone in the family go shopping together so that they can take care of everyone's needs in one fell swoop. Because it only takes ten minutes to walk from Liuho Night Market to Hsinhsing Market, it's probably best to cruise both markets in one outing before sitting down to eat, that way you can get a good feel for how the people of Kaohsiung spend their shopping hours.

Lotus Lake and its environs

Lotus Lake, located in Tsoying Ward, had long lain relatively forgotten, but Kaohsiung has been expanding northward in recent years, toward the lake. At the same time, local activists and the city government have completed some attractive improvements in the nearby area, establishing the Kaohsiung Museum of Fine Arts as well as the Mt. Panping Nature Park. These efforts have triggered a cultural renaissance in Tsoying Ward. If you depart from Hanlai Hotel and move north on Chunghua Road, signs will guide you to all of these attractions.

Located near Lotus Lake are, from south to north, the old city (Fengshan), the Dragon and Tiger Pagodas, Wuli Pavilion, Spring and Autumn Tower, the Temple of Enlightenment, and the Confucius Temple. The lake itself, covered with lotus, has been regarded since the Qing dynasty as one of the eight most beautiful sights of Fengshan. Today one can stand on the banks and see the beautiful scenery of Mt. Panping in the distance, while the Dragon and Tiger Pagodas in the foreground reflect off the surface of the water. Today, the words "sunset at Lotus Lake" have a special meaning to anyone lucky enough to have seen one.

There are over 20 temples within a 500-meter radius of Lotus Lake, the most famous of all being the Confucius Temple. The area's sights can be comfortably visited on foot in half a day.

The lake covers an area of 42 hectares, and is fed by the Kaoping River. The willows lining the banks add to its beauty, and in the breeze it feels as if you were looking out upon the water through a curtain. Rising in the middle of the lake are the twin Dragon and Tiger Pagodas. One pagoda has a giant dragon in front of it, the other a tiger (see photo). Visitors enter via the dragon and exit via the tiger for good luck.

To the northwest of the lake is Confucius Temple. Rebuilt in 1976 in the style of a Song-dynasty Confucian temple, it covers a larger area than any other Confucian temple in Taiwan. The temple precincts are laid out just as they are at the granddaddy of all Confucian temples in Qufu (the sage's hometown, in Shandong Province). The original Confucius Temple in Fengshan was built in 1684 but fared badly during the Japanese colonial occupation. Only a small part of this original survives, on the grounds of Tsoying Elementary School in old Fengshan.

The Temple of Enlightenment is the largest temple on the banks of Lotus Lake. On the temple precincts are a Spring Hall and Autumn Hall, linked by a footbridge. The pagodas are named in memory of Guan Yu, a great general famed for the immortal lines: "Though I fight to restore the Han, I am inspired by the Spring and Autumn [a supposed golden age in ancient China]; My ambition is to make a contribution to history."

To the southeast of the lake is the old city of Fengshan, capital during the Qing dynasty of one of the five administrative districts into which Taiwan was then divided. The walled city was built in 1825, the first city in Taiwan with earthen walls. Qing troops were stationed to the left of the city, and the area came to be known accordingly as Tsoying ("the left encampment"). The old city remains intact today, and the city's north, east, and south gates are listed as Class 1 National Historic Sites.

Mt. Panping

Mt. Panping is famed for its distinctive beauty. Half of the mountain appears to have simply fallen away, and a number of myths explain the oddity. According to the best known among them, an immortal came to Tsoying in hopes of finding someone worthy of taking on as a disciple. He wanted someone who knew how to be content with what he had. The immortal sliced off half the mountain, mixed it with the water of Lotus Lake, rolled out a giant mass of dumpling dough, and posted a sign: "One copper coin buys one piece of dumpling dough. Pay two coppers and take all you want." Everyone who came paid two coppers and carted the dough away by the bagful, but then a youth came, paid one copper, and ate his dumpling. He then paid a second copper for another one. The immortal took the youth away with him to his celestial abode. The missing half of the mountain was eaten up by all those others who thought they were so smart in carting away their bags of dough.

Half the mountain is missing, to be sure, but it wasn't sliced away by an immortal. Mt. Panping was quarried intensively in the 1960s and 70s to supply the construction crews building Taiwan's freeway system. The heavy earth moving equipment is all gone now, and left in its wake is a new nature park. All the digging done 30 to 40 years ago exposed a lot of fossils, making the mountain a favorite destination for elementary school field trips. The fossil record reveals that the area was once inhabited by mammoths, stegadons, rhinos, bovine creatures, turtles, crocodiles, deer, whales, sharks, cats, and fish. Plans for a fossil museum are now under discussion.

Kaohsiung Museum of Fine Arts

This is Taiwan's largest museum, noted especially for its emphasis on preservation of Taiwanese art. Its extensive holdings include a carving of water buffalo done by Huang Shui-tu, Taiwan's first modern sculptor, and paintings by Hung Ken-shen, Kaohsiung's "black school" painter. The museum also puts on temporary exhibits of works by Taiwanese painters.

Located next to the museum is a sculpture garden with over 20 works from both Taiwan and abroad. Most were commissioned at one point or another over the years. Under the big, open sky of Kaohsiung, these sculptures interact with the natural environment particularly well.

Snacks

In addition to its night markets, Kaohsiung has a great range of snack shops and restaurants. The adventurous spirit of a port city is reflected in the constant offering of new treats. We've outlined just some of the snack venues a visitor absolutely mustn't miss!

For this variety of hotpot, onions and slices of meat are fried then added to soup, a cooking style that brings out the sweetness of the onions. The custom-made wok is thick with a deep base, excellent for maintaining the temperature and sealing in the flavour. The proprietor Yang Shui-chu explains that Kaohsiung has a hot climate and according to Chinese medicine, eating hotpot dishes can easily cause excessive inner heat. Most hotpot businesses don't do particularly well but the Tachia Mini Hotpot has something special going for it. They use traditional Chinese medicinal herbs in their cooking and the soup stock there has cooling properties, so it's OK on a hot day.

You can see this company's name everywhere in Taiwan and even mainland China, a testament to the appeal of the products of this favorite Kaohsiung spot.

Kaohsiung's Mikao City actually has no other branches and isn't large, but it's been operating for over 50 years. Their unique way of steaming polished glutinous rice produces a finished product that has a pleasing soft chewy texture, yet doesn't stick to your teeth. Another specialty they do here is a shredded, dried fish made by pounding sailfish and salt from Kaohsiung Harbour. It doesn't contain any fishbones and it's crispiness complements rice perfectly. The proprietor, Wu Ku recommends enjoying your mikao with some sishen soup. The flavors enhance each other and it cuts the oiliness.

Shaguo (crock pot) dishes originated in northern Jiangsu province. It's said that the Han dynasty hero Liu Bang met with misfortune while in Hsuchou and was given a bowl as alms. Afterwards he investigated how to make such food himself. Shaguo dishes are made by stewing different ingredients, including chicken, pork bones, oatmeal, and medicinal materials, until it's impossible to recognize what it contains, but the food's good!

Shaguo is usually eaten along with crispy pancakes, which are dipped into it. Plain pancakes balance the unusual flavor of shaguo.

In earlier times being able to eat food combining Kaohsiung flavors with the tastes of the northern area of Jiangsu provided a welcome taste of home for people who'd come from those parts.

On Shih-chuan Road, next to Kaohsiung Hospital, are a lot of snack shops by the entrance to Pao An Temple. Particularly famous among them is the goose meat shop. When it opened several years ago the line of customers stretched in a long queue.

The shop sells three different items: goose in brine, wine-soaked goose, and smoked tea goose, which is their specialty. The goose flesh is first soaked in Chinese herbal medicine and then smoked. After that it must be frozen and then thawed. It's eaten cold. The proprietor Sun Tsung-pao describes this dish as having cooling and tonic properties, ideal for Kaohsiung's sweltering climate.

At the area around the entrance to Pao An Temple you'll also find stalls offering sausages and seafood, which those who just can't resist good food can explore at their leisure.

There can't be anyone in Kaohsiung who doesn't know or hasn't heard of Granny's. When they return to their hometown, local people who've been away for many years all come here for a shaved-ice treat and to revisit their youth. This family business was set up in 1934 during the Japanese occupation and has been operating for three generations now. Originally called Hsinsheng Ice Parlour, its current name comes from the affectionate nickname by which students of the nearby Kaohsiung girls' secondary school used to address the first proprietor, Tsai Ku.

The favourite items are the shaved fruit ices, a sliced tomato dish, and red bean soup. The shaved fruit ices feature fresh fruit in season. In fall, for instance, persimmons are all the go. The fruit is prepared using a sauce they make there and the results are fabulous. The sliced tomato is served with a unique sauce from southern Taiwan, a blend of ginger juice, soy paste, and sugar. The red bean soup containing mochi glutinous rice balls is slowly stewed on a stove. It's only available in winter. The proprietor has recently been developing some new items: dragon fruit ices and sea moss with mochi balls. You'll have a chance to try them out when Granny's opens up branches all over Taiwan next year.

Kaohsiung has a long summer and doesn't get cold in winter, so Granny's does a booming trade almost the whole year round.

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If the traffic's good, Kaohsiung International Airport is just a 10-minute drive from the city center.

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The setting sun bathes the breakwater at Hsitzuwan in golden light. Sunsets in southern Taiwan are particularly spectacular, making you completely forget the summer heat.

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The Ambassador Hotel beside the Ai River has wonderful views of the water and offers guests a perfect place to relax.

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The Ai River has inspired many poets.

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A hike to enjoy the beautiful Takao Hill is a great half-day excursion.

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Pop stars regularly hold autograph signings in New Chueh Chiang, an area known as "Kaohsiung's Hsimenting." Here, Hong Kong idol Nicholas Tse attracts crowds of young fans.

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Old Chueh Chiang's import shops are a great place to get quality goods at discount prices. They have legions of regular customers.

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Ferries run between Gushan and Chichin Island about once every ten minutes.

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One can look out over the entire city from the Grand Formosa Kaohsiung Hotel's coffee shop, which is often full to capacity.

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The pedicabs near the ferry pier on Chichin Island are a rare sight in Taiwan.

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FE21 Mega, which just opened last year, has added an extra jolt of vitality to the Santuo shopping district.

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The streets of Chichin Island are lined by a succession of seafood restaurants beckoning to the hungry passerby. The well-known Laifa Seafood Restaurant relies on freshness and clearly stated prices to attract budget-conscious customers.

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Deepfried breaded grunion, steamed and barbecued seafood, crabs. . . the flavor of Kaohsiung Harbor!

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Chihhou Matsu Shrine, a Class 3 Historical site, bears clear signs of its fishing port origins.

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The Dragon and Tiger Pagodas reflect off the breeze-tickled surface of Lotus Lake. This is old Taiwan at its best.

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The ornate Hanlai Hotel speaks volumes about the spirit of the people of Kaohsiung.

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Isetan and Hanshin Department Stores are linked by Hsintien Road to form an integrated shopping district.

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The Kaohsiung Museum of Fine Arts is noted for its emphasis on Taiwanese art.

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Kaohsiung has made great efforts to throw off its reputation as a cultural wasteland. The city now sports a lot of public art. The sculpture garden seen here is just one example.

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As you wander through Liuho Night Market you can taste a fantastic variety of foods from all parts of Taiwan.

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A Liuho Night Market branch outlet sells the famous yaodun paigu (pork ribs stewed in medicinal herbs), also sold in Taipei's Shihlin night market. It's extremely popular.

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Rice balls, eel noodles, and hot and cold desserts are perennial favorites at Liuho night market.

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Hot pots in Kaohsiung don't cause excessive "inner heat," thanks to a secret traditional soup stock.

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Just the thought of the marvelous local glutinous rice, accompanied by shredded fish or meat and pickled gherkins, make one's mouth water.

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Goose meat with seafood is an innovative food combination from the Ta Miao Kou Goose Meat Restaurant.

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Hsuchou shaguo eaten with pancakes makes a really appetizing combination.

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Fruit shaved ices and dragon fruit ices are new features on the menu at Granny's Ice Parlor.