A Tale of Turtle Mountain Island

However, the warning bells tell us that 80% of Taiwan's coast has lost its natural ecological structure because of human interference and damage to the environment. The coastline of Yunlin County in particular is considered to be 97% affected. In recent years, pollution, overfishing and other human factors have afflicted Taiwan's magnificent offshore environment.

It is clear to all that the nation's ocean resources have decreased sharply, and many conservationists claim that to protect the marine environment, we need to adopt the "precautionary principle" to control human interference, and set up marine parks where fishing and recreational activities are strictly regulated. But the realities of carrying out such a plan present a number of problems. How, for example, will the rights of local fishermen be respected? How will the balance between the benefits of conservation and losses to the economy be managed? How can we avoid radical conservation groups misusing the precautionary principle and demanding controls on marine reserves so strict that they become unworkable? So what should Taiwan do? The gains that have already resulted from the opening up and protection of Kueishan (Turtle Mountain) Island off the Ilan coast may help find a way forward.

"These days, the fish have no chance to spawn!" says an old captain who has been fishing commercially for almost 40 years. Looking out across the Pacific Ocean from Wushih Harbor in Toucheng, Ilan County, the old sailor speaks frankly as he draws on his cigarette: "Fishermen net everything, even the young fish, so how can we expect them to sustain their numbers?" Having spent his entire life at sea, he has seen at first hand the changes in Taiwan's ocean reserves in recent decades. His reminiscences are tinged with great sadness.

"Twenty years ago when the fishermen went to sea, they would see masses of fish almost jumping into the boat. But these days you can leave a net in the water for three days, and if you see any fish at all, you're very happy!" says Huang Cheng-nan. Huang left home at a young age to work in interior design, and in middle age has returned to run a hostel, Seaside Aura. He talks about his concerns that the coastal environment in Toucheng is very different from the one he remembers. There's a real sense of sadness as he speaks from the lobby of the hostel with the sound of the sea crashing onto the shore as background.

Although the Taiwanese mainland occupies only one four-thousandth of the Earth's landmass, it has more than 3000 fish species, accounting for around one tenth of the global total. There are 43 species of exquisite butterfly fish living amongst its coral reefs, making this the foremost area in the world for these species.

A deepening crisis

Such accounts from people with over three decades' experience are not to be taken lightly, and reveal a deepening crisis, especially with regard to the livelihoods of those who make their living from the sea. Scientific data are even more concerning--on average, every 20 minutes one species disappears from the earth. Edward O. Wilson, professor of biology at Harvard University and Pulitzer Prize winner, points out in his book The Diversity of Life that at present the earth is facing the sixth largest period of extinctions in its history. And for the first time, human beings are to blame. Extinction rates are increasing, with three species disappearing every hour, 74 species every day and 27,000 every year. While people talk, living plants and animals are quietly disappearing without trace.

Taiwan has more than 10% of global fish species in her waters, so she is not excluded from this sad fate. Over 200 fish species are so specific to this area that they have the word "Taiwan" in their Chinese names, but many of them have not been seen for a long time. Hyporhamphus gernaeri, for example, a species unique to local waters, used to spawn in the estuary of the Tanshui River. "Pollution in the Tanshui River estuary and the destruction of habitat are the main reasons for the extinction of this species. Ironically, before the fish had been certified as a new species by taxonomists, it had already disappeared from the earth--even before they had been given their scientific name, they were extinct!" Shao Kwang-tsao, a research fellow and acting director of the Research Center for Biodiversity at Academia Sinica, points to some of the main reasons for the drying-up of Taiwan's marine resources.

Overfishing and bycatching (the accidental netting of non-target species) are other reasons for the problem. At present, the average annual fish catch is less than 100 million tons globally, but the total netted by fishing boats is more than 200 million tons. In a situation like this, naturally, fish stocks are continually in decline. In addition, 90% of the larger species such as sailfish and cod have been overfished to the extent that 75% of commercial fish stocks are at or near the point of collapse. This includes the bluefin tuna, which has recently been promoted in Taiwan both as a tourist attraction and as a way to boost the economies of smaller fishing communities. Global tuna numbers are presently at one fifth of what they were 15 years ago.

According to the 2007 Global Environment Outlook Yearbook from the United Nations Environment Program (UNEP), if the global fishing industry doesn't take immediate corrective and remedial action, present marine stocks will be completely exhausted by 2050. Long-term overfishing has led to the decline of resources and extinction of fish species, and has also reduced the level of nutrition in the food chain, which is currently falling 10% every 20 years, precipitating dramatic changes in the marine ecology. This damage is occurring not just on the surface where we can see what's happening, but deep inside the natural food chain. Because our complex ecological systems include hundreds of thousands of species, the survival of any particular species is interdependent on all others. Thus, if any species or any environmental factors change, this variation is felt throughout the system.

A turning point--marine reserves

Is this issue being exaggerated just to scare people? The extinction of biological species is not an unusual event--every life comes to an end sooner or later. Most species will exist for only several million years, and then they will disappear forever: the great dinosaurs, for example. However, when the extinction of life forms and damage to the planet's ecosystems are caused by human beings, it becomes a form of suicide, and a morally unconscionable crime.

For most fishermen, sailing out to sea symbolizes stepping out of the frustration of everyday life, and a quest for new opportunities. Those responsible also need to step beyond everyday thinking and to seek a solution. The 2007 Global Environment Outlook Yearbook, compiled by more than 80 scientists and policy experts, appeals to every nation to adopt policies to protect marine species as soon as possible. One of the most efficient methods of doing this, it points out, is to create and extend the range of marine reserves.

The concept of a Marine Protected Area (MPA) is one that can take many forms. The nature of a reserve can vary according to the differing demands of different nations or regions. At present, there are more than 2000 MPAs in the world, of which the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park in Australia is one of the most famous examples. Last year US President Bush announced that the North Hawaiian Island Chain is to become an MPA, protecting an area of ocean about 2,300 km long and 360,000 km2 in area, about ten times the size of Taiwan. The Fijian government has also set aside 30% of the nation's territorial seas as a marine reserve.

In Taiwan, protected nature reserves can be divided into four types: national parks, nature reserves, wildlife refuges and habitats, and forest reserves, protected areas that are controlled either by the Ministry of the Interior or by the Council of Agriculture. So while there is no provision for the protection of marine areas, the expertise and administrative agencies needed for MPAs are similar to those of national parks. Kenting National Park has been in existence for nearly 27 years and the setting up of Dongsha Atoll Marine National Park was announced on January 17th 2007. These two areas can be considered prototype MPAs.

At the end of April as part of the 2007 International Year of the Dolphin, the Ilan County Government and the Northeast Coast National Scenic Area Administration conducted whale watching tours around Kueishan Island.

Kissed by the Kurishio Current

"Taiwan's 1,600 kilometers of coastline and 3 million square kilometers of territorial waters, the so-called 'blue territory,' should be made an MPA," says Chiu Wen-yen, former member of a presidential advisory committee on land conservation and development, and now director of the Research Institute of Marine Resource Management at National Taiwan Ocean University. Taiwan is surrounded by sea, and has an irregular coastline, areas of shallow water and a number of reefs and harbors. Marine species vary depending on the environment, so the nation possesses many different types of marine ecological system.

"The complex intersecting areas of different systems, which are rich in marine species, should be first on the list of MPAs," argues Shao Kwang-tsao. The Research Center for Biodiversity, after looking at the data and listening to suggestions from other groups, has proposed that a number of areas should be prioritized in the process of developing MPAs. These are Dongsha Atoll Marine National Park, Kaomei Wildlife Park in Taichung County, Kuningtou Turtles Protected Area on Kinmen, Chingwan Marine Park on Penghu, Kueishan Island Coral Reef and Shallow-Sea Hot Springs Protected Area in Ilan County, Lanyu and Green Island Marine Parks, and Nansha Pacific Islands Marine Park. It also hopes that the size of Taiwan's marine protected areas in the near future will reach the goal of 5% of the nation's territorial waters out to the 12-nautical-mile limit.

Plans for the turtle reserves on Kinmen and Penghu, Dongsha Atoll Marine National Park, and the Green Island National Park are gradually being finalized. "The scenic beauty and diverse wildlife of Kueishan Island's shallow-sea hot springs area are world class, and because it was a prohibited military zone for many years, pollution and environmental damage levels are low. Thus, within three years, the sea floor should revive fully," says Cheng Ming-hsiu, a research fellow at Academia Sinica. Therefore, he is very keen to see Kueishan Island ten kilometers off Ilan set up as a protected area.

Cheng Ming-hsiu further points out that the waters close to Kueishan Island have an immensely rich marine ecology. Both the Kuroshio Current (a.k.a. the Japan Current) and a branch of the Oyashio Current flow past the island only two to three nautical miles offshore, attracting countless marine species to the clear, warm waters. Except in typhoon weather, on a sunny day one can easily see the bottom of the ocean.

Although the Taiwanese mainland occupies only one four-thousandth of the Earth's landmass, it has more than 3000 fish species, accounting for around one tenth of the global total. There are 43 species of exquisite butterfly fish living amongst its coral reefs, making this the foremost area in the world for these species.

Marine park

At 4 p.m. on April 9, the Internet weather forecast from the Central Weather Bureau shows the weather on Kueishan Island: wind Force 1, gusting to Force 5-6. Boat transport to and from the island is usually suspended at wind Force 7, so we're getting close to the limit. The next day at 8 a.m., with 389 tourists and eight other people on board, we are bouncing along the "blue highway" to Kueishan Island in a government ferry. The eight include the captain, two lifeguards, a policeman stationed on Kueishan, Lin Yu-lo (an officer from the Northeast Coast National Scenic Area Administration), a volunteer named Yang Kuo-i, a photographer and myself. The old saying about the heavens being unpredictable proves itself true with regard to our sailing weather. In only a few hours, there has been a huge change. There are enormous seas, and strong winds twist umbrellas one way, and then swing around to blow them out straight again. Our destination is the north harbor, but because of the wind and seas, the boat can't put in to shore. As a result, we have to sail down to the old port in the south. Under these conditions, people are getting worried and impatient, but as we stare at the sea tortured with wind and rain, suddenly there appears a beautiful belt of blue on the ocean surface.

"If it wasn't for the huge swells, we wouldn't normally see this sulfur belt at the southern end of the island because it usually only appears at the turtle's head," police officer Jao, who has been stationed on the island for many years, had explained to us while he was checking the number of passengers boarding the boat to make sure that it was not overloaded.

In the ocean near the "head" of the turtle at the eastern end of the island, at least 50 hot springs gush forth into the sea. This area contains the largest shallow-water undersea hot springs in the world. According to Yang Kuo-i, when the weather is calm, the reek of sulfur from the turtle's head can be smelled ten kilometers away on the Lanyang Plain.

On this day, the sulfurous emissions from the hot springs are being blown and washed to the southern end of the island by the tremendous wind and waves. The sulfur-colored water extends unbroken from the head of the island to the south, and suddenly a three-kilometer-wide belt of blue appears. Sulfur smoke emanating from the ocean and hot springs are two of the scenic wonders of the island. Our group is so surprised and happy to witness such a unique event that they forget their queasiness caused by the rough sea.

In the minds of all Ilan residents, Turtle Mountain Island is a "spirit turtle." Its mouth can spurt smoke ("Turtle Island sulfur smoke"), its tail can shake ("the spirit turtle shaking its tail"), and its claws on both sides can paddle. In their minds, the island is a living being. In fact, Turtle Mountain Island is around 7000 years old, and is the only surviving active volcano in Taiwan. Although the island has an area of only 2.85 square kilometers and a coastline of only ten kilometers, it boasts an extremely diverse natural ecology. The sulfurous emissions and hot springs nurture plankton which provides food for species at the bottom of the food chain. Directly or indirectly, the undersea springs provide nourishment for the many marine species and the more than 300 species of flora and fauna on the island itself.

According to a 1999 report from Shao Kwang-tsao and Cheng Ming-hsiu, due to the presence of the Kuroshio Current flowing through the Kueishan Island marine area, there are over 300 fish species and about 60 types of coral reef on the sea floor. The survival rate of the reefs is between 30% and 90%. "Kueishan Island marks an important borderline between fish species in Taiwan's coral reef area. The oceans surrounding the island are at the southern end of the meeting-place where big schools of fish gather from both the northern and southern waters of Taiwan. Because Kueishan Island was long isolated as a military zone, its resources have been well preserved; in fact, it can be regarded as an almost perfect marine ecology park," says Lin Yu-lo.

Moving the focus from Kueishan Island back to the mainland of Taiwan, Tahsi in Toucheng, Ilan County, is only a short distance (10 km) from the northwestern part of Kueishan Island. In Tahsi's fish market, baskets of different types of freshly caught seafood are waiting for customers. In this traditional fishing port full of the strong aromas of the sea and the less pleasant stench of fish, we seemed to be able to "smell" the nutrition that the warm Kuroshio Current brings to the deep sea. The abundance of food attracts aquatic residents such as bonito, flying fish, shark and mackerel to feed and spawn, creating a rich livelihood for local fishermen. "Last year the total fish catch reached the highest point in the past ten years, and every boat earned more than a million dollars," says Chien Ying-chun. He was in the fishing business himself up to age 49, and since then has been involved in volunteer activities for Kueishan Island and promoting fishing rights for locals. However, from our conversation it becomes clear that although fish stocks are still abundant, they are no longer to be found close in, and the boats are having to travel further out to sea in search of a good catch.

Although the Taiwanese mainland occupies only one four-thousandth of the Earth's landmass, it has more than 3000 fish species, accounting for around one tenth of the global total. There are 43 species of exquisite butterfly fish living amongst its coral reefs, making this the foremost area in the world for these species.

Fishermen's heartfelt wishes

While catches further off the coast have boomed because the government maintains rigorous control, this is also the biggest annoyance for fishermen. "Two days ago, our boat was stopped by the marine patrol. They said we shouldn't catch fish within three nautical miles of the coast," says Kueishan Islander Huang Chen-yu, who moved to Toucheng 31 years ago. Other volunteers sitting inside the community center opposite the fishing port agree. Fishing is a family affair in this community where more than 90% of those whose fathers or grandfathers were Kueishan Island fishermen still continue in the business.

"The government blames trawlers for catching fish regardless of size. The boats, of course, need to catch as many fish as they can to cover fuel costs. We all know that the price of a barrel of diesel oil has risen from NT$1500 to $2300. We need to protect fishing resources, but there are many types of fishing, so the government shouldn't be focusing on simply banning trawlers. For example, some fishermen set up fixed nets in the coastal waters of Su-ao and Tung-ao. They caught more fish per day than our sons and relatives do in three years. If the government wants to ban trawlers, it should also ban others who are taking large numbers of fish," argues A-hui, who used to be a fisherman but now runs a whale-watching business for tourists.

"We are not against the idea of a reserve, but the government needs a comprehensive policy and should discuss the alternatives with the frontline fishermen. This year the government made a decision without any consultation and banned our trawlers," Chien Ying-chun, the head of Kueishan Village in Tahsi, Toucheng, argues indignantly. "Trawling was introduced by the government, but now the government considers that marine resources along coast waters are becoming depleted, so they've banned fishing. The government should be as concerned about fishermen's livelihoods as they are about marine resources. The fishing grounds are like farmers' fields for us fishermen. Like the farmers' policy of leaving fields fallow, we know that if we catch too many fish, one day stocks will dry up. We can have a rest for two months a year. Our marine area is rich in nutrition so the fish will grow fast and well. If the government wants to limit fishing in the three nautical mile zone, it should ban all commercial fishing. This issue still needs a lot of negotiation between the government, local authorities and fishermen."

Fishermen's concerns certainly need to be listened to. On the other hand, "In contrast with traditional ways of regulating fishing, the use of marine protected areas is a more comprehensive policy." Chen Tien-shou, deputy director of the Fisheries Agency, explains the thinking behind government policy. Look carefully at the causes of the problem: the decline of fishing resources isn't simply a result of overfishing. In fact, the damage done to marine resources is more the result of the destruction of the entire ecological system. For example, the contributing problems of shoreline erosion, oil spills and chemical pollution can be avoided if we set up marine protected areas. At the same time, because many species migrate between different feeding and spawning areas, setting up large interconnected protected reserves will ensure that fish can move about the seas in freedom and safety.

The future--music of the sea

"Actually in theory it's not difficult to set up a marine protected area, but the reality is that it's very hard to put such legislation into practice and provide the necessary budget to maintain effective regulatory control," says Shao Kwang-tsao, pointing out a key concern. Green Island is a good example. In 1996, Green Island was recommended as an ecological tourism site by APEC. Unfortunately, the government failed to put in place effective protection policies, and as a result, open tourism has led to the region becoming polluted. Now Green Island is listed as being under a medium-level threat of environmental damage.

"At the present stage, there is a shortage of administrative officials to look after places like Kueishan Island, so the government needs a special authority to take control of marine protection and ecological tourism," suggests Cheng Ming-hsiu. In terms of legislative options for the creation of marine reserves, at present in Taiwan there is only legislation to cover national parks and fishing, and these provide little real power. Specific laws need to be drafted to cover Taiwan's marine resources as soon as possible.

The government has set up around 70 regions as protected areas in line with legislation covering such areas as cultural assets, wildlife protection, national parks, coastal reserves and fishing. But most of these areas have been designed to protect selected species (which may be significant either because they are almost extinct or may have some commercial value), rather than ecosystems as a whole. As a result, these regions are not managed as complete protected areas, and there are parts that totally lack any management or protection at all. So many existing "protected" areas have protection in name only.

"It's difficult to persuade mankind to recognize the importance of the ocean," argues Wu Hsiang-chien, director the team that prepared the establishment of Dongsha Atoll Marine National Park. Wu has seen the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park in Australia, and believes that Taiwan has to understand the seas as not just a source of delicious seafood, but as something that has a value in itself. Otherwise, if one day the ocean is damaged beyond repair, we will experience great sadness at such an enormous loss, and forever regret losing the opportunity to create a future surrounded by a rich and bountiful ocean.

Factfile--Marine Protected Areas

Setting up protected marine environments has been one the most important tasks in protecting global biodiversity. Shao Kwang-tsao claims that in the past, protection policies have emphasized land species. Over 12% of the global landmass has been given protection, but this is true of less than 1% of ocean areas.

Therefore, in 1998 during International Year of the Ocean, more than 2000 marine experts signed their names to an appeal for every nation connected with the ocean to reserve at least 20% of their territorial waters as marine parks by 2020.

In 2003, the World Protected Areas Conference listed marine protection as a key issue, and asked every nation to extend marine protected areas to cover 12% of the global marine environment within ten years.

In fact, marine reserves can take many different forms. Depending on local plans and laws, there are a variety of possible structures. At present, the most favored format is a marine reserve that does not limit non-extractive activities like fishing, recreational activities, shipping, or even military exercises.

However, because there are so many facets to this issue, it is often controversial. The favored concept of a marine reserve is in fact a descendant of the "precautionary principle." It is different from traditional fishery management methods, such as controlling fishing equipment and the size of catches of particular species. Marine reserves ensure a holistic perspective, and seek to ensure effective care of the entire ecosystem, not just particular species.

Despite Kueishan Island's having an area of only 2.85 square kilometers and a coastline of ten kilometers, its ecology is extremely diverse. Sulfurous emissions from hydrothermal vents on the sea bed nurture plankton, providing nutrition for life-forms at the bottom of the food chain, and in turn sustaining marine animals and the more than 300 species of flora and fauna on the island.

The original residents of Kueishan Island moved to Toucheng, Ilan County 31 years ago, and more than 90% of them still make a living from fishing, just as their ancestors did.

Activities including sailing, surfing and canoeing are encouraged in the Northeast Coast National Scenic Area. While this allows people to enjoy the beautiful waters, such activities may also pose a threat to marine reserves. Hence the benefits need to be carefully weighed against any negative impact on the environment.

Although the Taiwanese mainland occupies only one four-thousandth of the Earth's landmass, it has more than 3000 fish species, accounting for around one tenth of the global total. There are 43 species of exquisite butterfly fish living amongst its coral reefs, making this the foremost area in the world for these species.

This is Kueishan Island's spiritual center--Puto Temple.