The Cold Springs of Su’ao

On our visit to Su’ao in Yilan County we are guided by local cultural historian Vincent Chuang, art director of Lantern Space in Yilan City. He says that in earlier times the refreshing air of Su’ao had a faint odor of sulfur, and local elders didn’t use the expression “cold spring bath,” but rather said “sulfur water bath.” The spring water of Su’ao can be drunk or used for bathing, and even today the cold springs remain a central part of Su’ao’s identity.

So what are cold springs?

How cold does the water have to be for a spring to be called a cold spring? In fact, different countries use different definitions. In Taiwan the term cold spring refers to a spring from which water at a temperature below 30°C flows up naturally from underground or is drawn up artificially, and contains at least 500 milligrams per liter (mg/L) of free carbon dioxide (CO2).

Vincent Chuang explains that there are two main conditions for a cold spring to exist: The first is an abundance of groundwater, and the second is rock formations that release large amounts of CO2. Su’ao is surrounded by mountains on three sides and is open to the Pacific Ocean to the east. This topography makes it a humid place with abundant rainfall, supplying a wealth of groundwater. In addition, the area has a great deal of limestone to produce CO2. In fact, Su’ao Township is home to four cement works, more than any other location in Yilan County, because limestone is the most important raw material for cement making, and the industry was attracted there by the natural geological conditions.

From the work of veteran Taiwanese geologist Chen Chao-hsia, we know that the Su’ao cold springs are “carbonated” springs, which contain a lot of carbon dioxide gas. They are formed when CO2 generated by processes of magmatism or metamorphism occuring deep beneath the earth’s surface rises up and dissolves in ground­water. In Su’ao the cold spring water is thought to originate from two kilometers underground, where temperatures are at 80–90°C. Because water containing gas is more buoyant than other groundwater, it rises to the top, thus mixing with higher layers of colder groundwater until it ultimately emerges from the springs at a cool 22°C.

Vincent Chuang notes that Su’ao locals don’t say “cold spring bath,” they say “sulfur water bath.”

Suao Cold Spring Park has red sulfur in its water. The factory and residence of Nobukage Takenaka can still be found here.

A cool discovery

The key figure in the development of Su’ao’s cold springs was Nobukage Takenaka, known as “the father of Taiwan’s cold springs.”

Vincent Chuang relates that when early pioneers came to Taiwan and saw the corpses of fish, shrimp, and insects floating in the water of the cold springs, they assumed the water was toxic and avoided it at all costs. In 1895, when Taiwan became a Japanese colony, military officer Nobukage Takenaka came to Su’ao, and when walking near Mt. Qixing he drank some of the spring water and found it to be refreshing and relaxing. He drew a sample of water and had it tested, revealing that it was high-quality carbonated water with therapeutic effects. After retiring from the military, Takenaka moved his family to Su’ao and founded Taiwan’s first ever factory producing soda pop packaged in “Codd-neck” bottles—bottles sealed by a glass marble in the neck. By adding sugar and flavorings to the cold spring water, he produced the refreshing bubbly drink known today as “marble soda.” (It is also known as ramune, a Japanese corruption of the English word “lemonade”; however, in Taiwan ramune refers not only to lemonade but to any soda sold in a Codd-neck bottle.)

Once the Su’ao cold springs became famous, public bathing venues were set up for men and women and the therapeutic properties of cold spring water were extolled. The springs became a must-see tourist attraction that could be accessed by the railroad to Su’ao, and they were designated as a natural monument by the Japanese colonial regime.

Soaking in cold springs is a normal part of life for Su’ao residents. No matter how cold the weather outside, after just a few minutes in the spring water with its constant temperature of 22°C, your whole body will unexpectedly feel hot. (MOFA file photo)

The large amount of carbon dioxide gas dissolved in Su’ao’s cold spring water means that when immersed in the bath one’s skin is quickly covered in bubbles. It’s been described as being like soaking in soda pop. (photo by Cathy Teng)

22°C all year round

Vincent Chuang outlines the evolution of the Su’ao cold springs after World War II: During the postwar national drive for economic growth in Taiwan, there was a lull in the development of the springs. It was not until the 1980s and 1990s, with the rise of discussion about promoting tourism as a non-polluting industry, that the Yilan County Government began planning to create a cold spring park for use by the general public. Today, people coming to Su’ao can choose among a number of enjoyable venues, including the publicly managed Alishi Cold Spring and Su’ao Cold Spring Park as well as privately run cold spring hotels where you can enjoy private baths, and there is even the option of staying in a high-end hotel.

Alishi Cold Spring, a white sulfur spring, offers public bathing pools frequently patronized by local residents, with separate free bathing areas for men and women. Next to these baths is a large foot-soaking pool where one can dip one’s bare feet into the water to enjoy the cooling sensation.

Su’ao Cold Spring Park boasts a red sulfur spring rich in minerals. Su’ao Cold Spring operations manager George Chang states that summer is the peak season for visiting cold springs, and they are very popular with overseas visitors who come to Yilan for the annual International Children’s Folklore & Folkgame Festival.

Jinhua Cold Spring Hotel, located beside the park, has a sign at the door saying “come in for a soda bath.” Lin Dongbo, second-generation operator of the hotel, explains that because the facility is very close to the spring source, water quality tests made by the county government show that it has a free carbon dioxide content of 2,000 mg/L. On immersing ourselves in the water we discover that our skin quickly becomes covered in bubbles, with a feeling like bathing in sugar-free soda. At first we feel cold, but after a few minutes our whole bodies become hot. Moreover, after getting out of the water our skin feels slick and smooth. The only catch, as Lin reminds us, is to ensure when bathing in a cold spring that there is good ventilation, to avoid being choked by the CO2.

Bathing in a cold spring is markedly different from bathing in a hot spring. Lin Dongbo explains that if you soak in cold spring water in summer, after getting out your body will remain cool for two to three hours, so that you feel refreshed even in intense sunshine. In the winter, on the other hand, a layer of water vapor forms on the surface of the cold spring bath, and if the temperature outside falls below 15°C a soak in the water is very enjoyable.

It is a misconception to think that Taiwan and Italy are the only two countries in the world with cold springs. But if you happen to come to Taiwan, be sure not to miss this natural endowment that brings pleasure both summer and winter!

Suao Cold Spring Park has both individual and family pools. With water sourced from both hot and cold springs, it is a place where you can enjoy the fun of bathing with family and friends.