Rejuvenating waste fabrics
One of the world’s major fabric makers, Taiwan has reaped a bitter harvest from mass production.
When too much is produced, large inventories and large amounts of waste materials, scrap fabric, sample fabrics, out-of-date fabrics, and defective goods accumulate and ultimately end up being thrown away.
Following the principles of the circular economy, Taiwan has established “cloth banks” that find new uses for waste fabrics, collecting these discards and providing them for design applications.
Working from the textiles hub of Tainan, the Industrial Technology Research Institute (ITRI) partnered with the Foundation of Historic City Conservation and Regeneration (FHCCR) and local companies to promote an online cloth bank integrating the virtual and real worlds. The platform connects consumers to these companies, most of which are major fabric makers for brands like Nike, Adidas, Victoria’s Secret and Burberry. In addition to being involved with the platform, the foundation has opened its own brick-and-mortar store selling waste fabrics to the general public.
Such fabrics have many uses. ITRI expert Huang Fei-ping paired up seven design teams with seven companies to develop themed rooms at The Place Tainan, a luxury hotel. Everest Textile provided Galaxy Reflective fabric that was combined with acrylic to create decorative art installations that produce a multicolored shimmer effect in the light of a camera flash. The designers also hung Liberty Tex’s lace from walls and pressed it into tabletops to create gorgeous patterns.
ITRI’s initiative isn’t the only one. The Kaulin Foundation, which was established by a leading industrial sewing machine maker, has access to large volumes of waste fabric created when its parent is testing products, and began using them in what it calls “Project ReSew’s.”
The basement of the foundation’s offices in Taipei’s Dazhi area feels like a secret underground base. Eight sewing machines stand side by side. In addition to a conventional sewing machine and an overlocker, it also holds less common types, including one with 12 needles, a belt loop machine, a three-needle machine, and an eyeleting machine.
There are baskets of waste fabric on the floor, and foundation CEO Iris Lin opens the door to a storage room to show us stacks of cardboard boxes containing still more waste fabric from fabric makers throughout Taiwan. Having spent the last several years connecting manufacturers and designers, the foundation has become a channel through which waste fabrics can be reborn.
Off to one side, two pieces of clothing hang on dressmaker’s mannequins. Fashion designer Joe Chan created them using waste fabric, and with the help of the foundation is preparing to send them to Las Vegas, where ten Taiwanese designers will be exhibiting together.
Using a machine provided by the foundation, Chan added decorative stitches to a striped shirt, applying his design sensibility to functional stitches to create unique textured patterns in different colored threads.
The long shirt can be worn as a smock or a one-piece dress, and is suitable for both men and women. Its fit is even adjustable.
Even though clothing manufactured from waste fabric accounts for only the tiniest sliver of the mainstream fashion market, “as long as one piece out of ten of a designer’s work is created with this concept in mind, it shows an awareness of the issue. That means we’re achieving our educational objective.” Which gives Lin something to cheer about.
At a cloth bank set up by the Industrial Technology Research Institute in partnership with a Tainan-based nonprofit, out-of-date inventory from fabric makers is sorted and displayed for sale to the public. Customers can get help from a staffer to turn it into garments or other items.
The Eden Social Welfare Foundation has partnered with FHCCR’s cloth bank to turn waste fabrics into interactive books that help handicapped children practice routine tasks.
The Eden Social Welfare Foundation has partnered with FHCCR’s cloth bank to turn waste fabrics into interactive books that help handicapped children practice routine tasks.
The Eden Social Welfare Foundation has partnered with FHCCR’s cloth bank to turn waste fabrics into interactive books that help handicapped children practice routine tasks.
The Eden Social Welfare Foundation has partnered with FHCCR’s cloth bank to turn waste fabrics into interactive books that help handicapped children practice routine tasks.
Online listings for fabrics include details such as their technical specifications and their manufacturer, to help designers with their buying decisions.
The Kaulin Foundation uses waste fabrics to spur designers’ creativity. Foundation CEO Iris Lin (right) and fashion designer Joe Chan (left) are getting ready to send the garments on the mannequins overseas to an exhibition.
This kind of 12-needle sewing machine is usually used to stitch elastic. Here, a designer is using one to sew different stitches in a variety of colors to create a decorative pattern on clothing.