Hsiaoliuchiu, an Island on the Move

Situated off the southwest coast of Taiwan in Pingtung County, the tiny island of Hsiaoliuchiu is attracting increasing numbers of tourists who are fascinated by the way the traditional Chinese lifestyle and folklore have been preserved there.

Throughout the more than 300 years of Chinese influence on the island, life has been centered around fishing. Even in today's age of space exploration and home computers, life in Hisaoliuchiu depends on the daily catch of fish. The island has many small fishing villages where each day the men go off to sea, while the women and children remain at home tending small garden plots and raising a few domestic animals. Sometimes, young boys of 10 go off to join their fathers in this life-sustaining art. The visitor to the island will find many scenes of rural life, groups of gossiping women, children playing and fat dogs lazing in the afternoon sun.

Like most traditional rural Chinese, the islanders still believe that a son is more valuable than a daughter, and in fact many of the landmarks on the island are a reflection of this belief. Boys are regarded as important because they will carry on the traditional work of the father, providing care for him in his old age.

Because of the often harsh conditions on the island, residents of Hsiaoliuchiu are deeply religious, as shown by the many temples and shrines they have built over the years. Two of the most famous, are the Piyun and Lingshan Temples.

The Piyun temple, established in 1879, during the reign of the Ching dynasty emperor, Kwang-Hsu, is reputed to be a center of prophecy and mysticism. The many incense burners arranged throughout the building are testimony to this belief.

The Lingshan temple is undoubtedly the most beautiful on the island. Majestically set against a backdrop of sea and hills, the temple is an attraction for both local and outside believers alike. The island is dotted with more than 20 other public temples, and numerous family shrines, whose fine aspect reflects the great respect the islanders have for the gods. It is believed that constant worship and observance of traditions will provide protection and prosperity for the family.

One of the most typical features of island folk customs is the annual observance of the goddess Kuanyin's birthday which serves as a period of "thanking the gods." Beginning on the 19th day of the second lunar month, this thanksgiving ritual is a festival of Taiwanese folk arts. The highlight is the performance of traditional Taiwanese opera. This year, three opera troupes were invited to perform at the larger temples on the island. It was a magnificent spectacle of color and sound. Bells ring and cymbals crash as disciplined artists relate many of the classical tales of China through a combination of song and dance. Often, many of the young children in the audience mimic the action, sometimes climbing up on the stage.

The lavish outlay for the festival is based on the belief that if they merely save the donated offerings and money the gods will be displeased and bad luck may befall the island. In order to appease the gods and ensure continued protection throughout the coming year, the islanders stage the festival.

The history of settlement on the island is similar to that of Taiwan. The existence of islands to the east of mainland China was known as early as the Sui and Tang dynasties, (6th through 9th centuries). According to local belief, however, the first settlers, were a dark-skinned, curly-haired people who most likely migrated from Melanesia or the Philippines. Local legends say these early inhabitants lived in caves and made frequent raids on the many ships that plied the local waters.

Chinese settlement on the island began during the Ming dynasty in about 1686. These early settlers were usually solitary fishermen who ventured out too far into the Straits of Taiwan and accidentally made landings on the island, mainly from the two southeastern provinces of Fukien and Kwangtung. With almost 300 years of settlement history, the island still retains an ancient flavor that the advance of modern technology has not dispelled.

This is probably due to the remoteness and harsh environment. The island lacks most natural resources, except for the rich and abundant marine life in the surrounding waters. In the past, life was especially trying for inhabitants as they eked out a meager existence from land and sea. In recent years with rapid industrialization and modernization on Taiwan, life on Hsiaoliuchiu has also seen tremendous progress as well.

The island relies on Taiwan for almost all essential goods and services, including food and medicine. There are nine supply boats traveling to the island each day bringing foodstuffs such as rice, bean curd, beans, fruit, and bread. The berths on the main port often resound with the squeals of pigs and the clucking of chickens.

There is a ferry service to Pingtung five times a day and three times a day to Kaohsiung. A harbor-to-harbor air service from Kaohsiung will further enhance the island's tourism industry.

Island services which still lag behind those on Taiwan are being improved steadily. Budget allotments have been made for the upgrading of roads and sewers, and a clean-up campaign to heighten islanders' awareness of their natural environment has been launched by the government. A full review of educational facilities is under way. In 1969, an electricity generating plant was built on the island, and in 1978 an underwater cable was completed linking the island to electricity services in Pingtung County. At present, 97 percent of homes on the island are electrified. In the past, drinking water came from underground sources which were high in nitric acid content, and in the dry season, often inadequate. In July of 1980, an underwater pipe was completed providing a fresh and constant source of water. Transportation on the island is provided by four buses operating on three routes. However, tourists can still see the more traditional form of transport the pengpo or covered cart, which was the only means of travel in former times.

In the fields of health care and education the island lacks the facilities that can be found on Taiwan. There are at present only three private clinics on the island to serve a population of 19,000. All serious cases must be treated on Taiwan.

There are four primary schools on the island and one junior high school. Because of the tradition of emphasizing fishing as the only career for the island's young men, parents in the past neglected education and there were many cases of young boys not finishing primary school. However, through the efforts of the government, the inhabitants are realizing that a good education system is essential for the island's future prosperity. Many young people who have received a university education often return to the island to teach and encourage the younger children.

The fishery industry, which is the center of island's life, is also being helped by the government. Large amounts of money have been invested in a variety of programs designed to improve all aspects of the industry. There are programs to teach fishermen the latest advances in technology and weather forecasting, new navigational techniques, and even how to enjoy rest and relaxation. The government has established several fishermen's activity centers which provide a wide array of services from health care to a relaxing game of chess.

Hsiaoliuchiu is rapidly meeting the demands of the future while retaining a sense of its past traditions. While it has many difficulties still to overcome, with the impetus of greater government investment and services the island will certainly continue to be an added treasure for the Republic of China.

[Picture Caption]

1. The weathered condition of this traditional Chinese arch is the best testimonial to the maritime location of the island. Daily winds, and sudden storms serve to weather even the most solid of buildings. 2. The festive red paper messages pasted on the fronts of homes celebrate the arrival of holidays in Hsiaoliuchiu. 3. Daybreak on the tranquil waters signals another day of toil as a group of fishing boats put out to sea. 4. Rural flavour of the island is illustrated in the architectural style of these red tile roof homes.

1. View from the decks of public transportation ferry which departs daily from Kaohsiung harbour to Hsiaoliuchiu. 2. Arrival of public ferry in the east harbour of Hsiaoliuchiu. 3. Hsiaoliuchiu depends heavily on the imports of foodstuffs and most household goods as seen in this dockside unloading of goods. 4. Tofu a staple of the Chinese diet is just one of the many staples imported each day to the island. 5. Noon-time siesta for this group of women selling their wares in the island villages. 6. Just one of the many fish shops that crowd the water front in Hsiaoliuchiu.

1. Fisherman catch, clean, and prepare their catch for sale in the shops on the island or for export sale in many countries like Japan and the United States. 2. In appreciation for the bountiful harvest from the sea, fishermen offer small food offerings to the gods. 3. Back in the harbour a small catch of fish is sorted. 4. A group of small traditional fishing boats known as shanpan. 5. Another view of early morning sunrise on the on waters around the island, tranquil and beautiful.

1. One of the most crucial articles of life on the island, the fishing net. 2. Assorted baskets and bamboo tubes used daily by the island fishermen. 3. Situated in close proximity to the main habour, this lighthouse is beacon for the many fishing boats that return daily from the sea. 4. Fishing nets hanging to dry in the warm sun. 5. Two fishermen discuss what is to be done to repair their damaged craft. Frequent bouts with the harsh wind and rain often result in damaged boats. 6. Fisherman inspect one the prized catches of the local waters, the tuna. 7. A view from the grounds of Ling Shan (Spirit Mountain) temple, of the surrounding sea.

1,2,3. These three pictures show the various animals domesticated by islanders, chickens, goats and cows. 4. Pigs imported from Taiwan to the island to be raised by islanders are herded through the streets of the east harbour. 5. Street side vender sells sausage cured from the meat of island raised pigs. 6. A piece of coral from the local waters. Extensive coral reefs can be found surrounding the island. Coral is highly prized by the islanders.

1. While the majority of islanders are Taoists or Buddhists there are also Christian and Catholic churches as evidenced in this photo. 2. A transport truck and bus on a harbour street. 3. Just one of the many temples and shrines which dot the island reflecting the deeply religious nature of the islanders. 4. One of the island bus stop signs. There are four buses serving three island routes. 5. A local farmer hangs strips of melon to dry in the sun. The dried melon makes a delicious snack. 6. Pi Yun temple is one of the largest temples on the island and is considered by islanders to be a center of accurate prophecy and fortune-telling. 7. In a show of appreciation and thanksgiving to the gods the islanders each year stage a festival of song and dance. The highlight of the festival is the performance of Taiwanese opera, a folk art enjoyed by both young and old.

1. An example of local children's art work, a junior high school art display. 2. Happy smile of a local girl as she cares for her younger sister. 3. Whiling away an afternoon, two young boys play a favorite game. 4. Being born by the sea and living in fishing families all children on Hsiaoliuchiu are expert swimmers. A great way to beat the intense heat of the summer sun. 5. While mother works around the house and yard small children are kept in close proximity, as seen in this photo. 6. Peacefully sleeping this baby reflects the quiet pace of island life.

2. The festive red paper messages pasted on the fronts of homes celebrate the arrival of holidays in Hsiaoliuchiu.

3. Daybreak on the tranquil waters signals another day of toil as a group of fishing boats put out to sea.

4. Rural flavour of the island is illustrated in the architectural style of these red tile roof homes.

1. View from the decks of public transportation ferry which departs daily from Kaohsiung harbour to Hsiaoliuchiu.

2. Arrival of public ferry in the east harbour of Hsiaoliuchiu.

3. Hsiaoliuchiu depends heavily on the imports of foodstuffs and most household goods as seen in this dockside unloading of goods.

4. Tofu a staple of the Chinese diet is just one of the many staples imported each day to the island.

5. Noon-time siesta for this group of women selling their wares in the island villages.

6. Just one of the many fish shops that crowd the water front in Hsiaoliuchiu.

1. Fisherman catch, clean, and prepare their catch for sale in the shops on the island or for export sale in many countries like Japan and the United States.

2. In appreciation for the bountiful harvest from the sea, fishermen offer small food offerings to the gods.

3. Back in the harbour a small catch of fish is sorted.

4. A group of small traditional fishing boats known as shanpan.

5. Another view of early morning sunrise on the on waters around the island, tranquil and beautiful.

1. One of the most crucial articles of life on the island, the fishing net.

2. Assorted baskets and bamboo tubes used daily by the island fishermen.

3. Situated in close proximity to the main habour, this lighthouse is beacon for the many fishing boats that return daily from the sea.

4. Fishing nets hanging to dry in the warm sun.

5. Two fishermen discuss what is to be done to repair their damaged craft. Frequent bouts with the harsh wind and rain often result in damaged boats.

6. Fisherman inspect one the prized catches of the local waters, the tuna.

7. A view from the grounds of Ling Shan （Spirit Mountain） temple, of the surrounding sea.

1,2,3. These three pictures show the various animals domesticated by islanders, chickens, goats and cows.

1,2,3. These three pictures show the various animals domesticated by islanders, chickens, goats and cows.

1,2,3. These three pictures show the various animals domesticated by islanders, chickens, goats and cows.

4. Pigs imported from Taiwan to the island to be raised by islanders are herded through the streets of the east harbour.

5. Street side vender sells sausage cured from the meat of island raised pigs.

6. A piece of coral from the local waters. Extensive coral reefs can be found surrounding the island. Coral is highly prized by the islanders.

1. While the majority of islanders are Taoists or Buddhists there are also Christian and Catholic churches as evidenced in this photo.

2. A transport truck and bus on a harbour street.

5. A local farmer hangs strips of melon to dry in the sun. The dried melon makes a delicious snack.

3. Just one of the many temples and shrines which dot the island reflecting the deeply religious nature of the islanders.

4. One of the island bus stop signs. There are four buses serving three island routes.

6. Pi Yun temple is one of the largest temples on the island and is considered by islanders to be a center of accurate prophecy and fortune-telling.

7. In a show of appreciation and thanksgiving to the gods the islanders each year stage a festival of song and dance. The highlight of the festival is the performance of Taiwanese opera, a folk art enjoyed by both young and old.

1. An example of local children's art work, a junior high school art display.

2. Happy smile of a local girl as she cares for her younger sister.

3. Whiling away an afternoon, two young boys play a favorite game.

4. Being born by the sea and living in fishing families all children on Hsiaoliuchiu are expert swimmers. A great way to beat the intense heat of the summer sun.

5. While mother works around the house and yard small children are kept in close proximity, as seen in this photo.

6. Peacefully sleeping this baby reflects the quiet pace of island life.