When the fleeting spring of Taiwan's lowlands gives way to summer, the rhododendrons blooming in the streets and parks fade and wither, and Yangming-shan's annual flower season draws to a close. But at this time the rhododendrons in Taiwan's wild places may just be beginning to unfurl their blooms to herald the spring, or may still be displaying the full vigor of their untamed vitality.
"In May and June above the sea of clouds, the rhododendrons bloom riotously," writes botanist Chen Yu-feng, who has traversed the wild places all over Taiwan.
Although our island is not large, its precipitous terrain causes the spring to walk with small steps from the plains towards the giddy peaks. From February when it first caresses Hengchun in the south, to June when it climbs above the snowline, spring wanders hesitantly along the mountain ridges. Among the highest crags the rhododendrons do not reach their full glory until May or June.
The higher the altitude, the more difficult the conditions for survival, and the thinner the protective atmosphere. But the intense ultra-violet rays enhance the flowers' splendor--they are never as pale as the cultivated rhododendron s of the cities. Hikers who wander through wave upon wave of flowering bushes find "the mountains and valleys ablaze with flowers, leaving the eye with no escape."
In preparation for their day of glory, the rhododendron's flower buds develop fully by November or December. Everything is ready, waiting only for the warmth of the next year's spring. When the winter snows melt into sliding, falling pearls of crystal water, all the explosive power stored up in the buds bursts out in a single spring day, and billows of fiery blossom course up the mountainsides.
Taiwan's wild rhododendrons are reared single-handedly by nature. Affected by the different soil, humidity, gradient and exposure to sunlight of the spot where it grows, each plant expresses a unique artistry in its struggle for life. On the ridges, buffeted year round by the winds, the high mountain rhododendrons nestle among the crags, their leaves growing thick to retain moisture and heat.
Different survival strategies created the different genes of Taiwan's 14 wild rhododendron species. The Oldham rhododendron, the Nan-Au azalea (Rhododendron breviperulatum) and the Taiwan rhododendron (Rhododendron ellipticum) flower from the plains up to 1-2000m, where they give way to Rhododendron hyperythrum, the Yushan rhododendron and the yellow Kawakami rhododendron (Rhododendron kawakamii), which can grow at up to 3000m.
Adaptation to special environments make some of the species only able to live in certain areas. The Kanehira azalea grows only by the Peishih River, and Rhododendron hyperythrum only around Mt. Nanhu. But these special environments are also what created Taiwan's 10 endemic species (species unique to Taiwan).
But while the endemic rhododendrons of the high mountains can still display their full splendor, those of lower areas are becoming rare, for they are daily being sacrificed to development. In his latest classification of Taiwan's wild rhododendrons, Lu Sheng-you of the Taiwan Forestry Research Institute makes this special note against the Kanehira azalea: "Endemic, formerly found in dry gullie s along the Peishih River and around Lutsu Lake. But since the Feitsui Reservoir was finished in 1984, its habitat may have been completely inundated. Hopefully some plants may still be found along the upper river for a rehabilitation program."
Artificially cultivated rhododendrons are gradually finding their way into the wild and climbing up the mountains. The hybrid Japanese Hirato rhododendron has invaded Yangmingshan, and the rhododendrons which flower along the mountain roads of Wulai in spring are artificially bred hothouse plants.
Perhaps one day, who knows: many of our native wild rhododendrons will only be found above the clouds.
[Picture Caption]
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High in the mountains, the buds of the endemic Yushan rhododendron (Rhododendron pseudochrysanthum) are already swollen, waiting only for the snow to melt before they burst open and reveal their splendor.
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Liao Tung-kun
Born 1965
Nature photographer for eight years, now freelance.
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The endemic Oldham rhododendron (Rhododendron oldhamii) is found all over Taiwan at altitudes up to 2500 meters, and can be seen along the Northern, Central and Southern Cross-Island Highways and in the Yangmingshan Mountains.
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The endemic Kanehira azalea (Rhododendron kanehirai) is now the rarest of Taiwan's wild rhododendrons.
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An Yushan rhododendron on a rocky crag. Despite the harsh environment, it finds a way to cling on to life.
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The eggleaf rhododendron (Rhododendron ovatum) is found both in mainland China and Taiwan, but has now become rare in Taiwan.
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The Indian azalea (Rhododendron simsii) grows at the northern and southern tips of Taiwan. In the north it can be seen in the area around Mt. Chihsing and Mt. Tatun. Its long flowering period lasts from February to June.
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Wild rhododendrons often grow intermixed with other shrubs.
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This Yushan rhododendron has set its seeds. When the pods burst, the dust-like seed will be spread all around, and life's cycle will begin anew.
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The endemic Rhododendron noriakianum has leaves less than 2cm long.
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The endemic Rhododendron hyperythrum, found in the area around Mt. Nanhu, has thicker petals than other rhododendron species.
The endemic Oldham rhododendron （Rhododendron oldhamii） is found all over Taiwan at altitudes up to 2500 meters, and can be seen along the Northern, Central and Southern Cross-Island Highways and in the Yangmingshan Mountains.
The endemic Kanehira azalea （Rhododendron kanehirai） is now the rarest of Taiwan's wild rhododendrons.
An Yushan rhododendron on a rocky crag. Despite the harsh environment, it finds a way to cling on to life.
The eggleaf rhododendron （Rhododendron ovatum） is found both in mainland China and Taiwan, but has now become rare in Taiwan.
The Indian azalea （Rhododendron simsii） grows at the northern and southern tips of Taiwan. In the north it can be seen in the area around Mt. Chihsing and Mt. Tatun. Its long flowering period lasts from February to June.
Wild rhododendrons often grow intermixed with other shrubs.
This Yushan rhododendron has set its seeds. When the pods burst, the dust-like seed will be spread all around, and life's cycle will begin anew.
The endemic Rhododendron noriakianum has leaves less than 2cm long.
The endemic Rhododendron hyperythrum, found in the area around Mt. Nanhu, has thicker petals than other rhododendron species.
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