Cultural surprises
Cooking ingredients like pandan leaves, lemon grass, and butterfly pea flowers are already common in Taiwan, but their traditional uses are still quite limited compared to their uses in Southeast-Asian cuisines. For an example, Thinnaphat Fang, who immigrated from Thailand, points to pandan leaves, with their natural aroma of taro and their use as the source of a natural green dye. “At the lecture, many seniors said that their Southeast-Asian daughters-in-law cultivated the plant but that they themselves had no idea what it was used for,” Fang says.
She taught them that pandan leaves could be used as an ingredient in many desserts, such as kue lapis (Indonesian layer cake), cendol (a sweet drink made from coconut milk and palm sugar), coconut pastries, and cakes. “It’s fragrant and magical,” Fang says.
“The juice of crushed pandan leaves, strained through a cloth, can also be added to glutinous rice or boiling soybean milk to add a unique flavor,” says Phong Kim-lian, who is originally from Vietnam. Different cooking methods are expanding the range of possibilities for using these ingredients in Taiwanese cooking.
Ma Yue’e and Su Yuong-chen, known for their skilful, clever creations, are both originally from Indonesia. When Ma Yue’e travels along the main route leading to her adopted home in Hengchun, the coconut palms towering on the sides of the road summon memories of Indonesia. In Hengchun she teaches the older generation to weave coconut fronds into hats, fans, baskets and other useful goods that are lightweight, environmentally friendly, and well-suited to local conditions, and display the creative energy of Indonesian culture.
Su Yuong-chen also demonstrates Indonesian customs through the making of ketupat (rice dumplings wrapped in palm fronds) and toys woven from palm fronds. “Taiwan’s rice dumplings [zongzi] have the stuffing inside the rice, while Indonesia’s rice dumplings have the stuffing on the outside!” Su adds with a laugh. There are similarities and differences, just as there are between Taiwanese and Indonesian culture.
Immigrants arrive not just from Southeast Asia. Lin Feng, an artist from Inner Mongolia, is shown here doing pyrography.