In My Name

Crafting a Frozen Dessert

2020 / July

Lynn Su /photos courtesy of Lin Min-hsuan /tr. by JR Lee

Frozen desserts have often been considered a non-­essential on the dining table. But some people have embarked on the lengthy journey of learning the trade of making them. In their hands, a simple dessert is not only given a sense of logic and reason, it also has a life of its own and can be crafted into infinite variations.

Many workers in craft industries like fashion design, jewelry, and the culinary arts, have traditionally named their brands or shops after themselves. This way of naming embodies the artisan’s aspirations and devotion to their work. It also symbolizes the prestige of attaining great heights in their area of expertise.

Two frozen dessert stores in Taipei, Kakigori Toshihiko and Studio du Double V, are no exception to this tradi­tion as both are named after their respective founders.

For Kakigori Toshihiko, a store which sells Japanese-style shaved ice, “Kakigori” means “shaved ice” in Japanese, while “Toshihiko” is the Japanese pronunciation of owner Wu Chun-yen’s Chinese given name, Chun-yen.

The “Double V” in the gelato shop Studio du Double V is the French pronunciation of the letter “w,” which stands for the founder’s English name, Willson Chen.

With names like these, one can sense that these dessert shops are home to true artisans. The fact that one name comes from Japanese and the other from French also hints that the owners have spent some time abroad.

A high-class dessert

With a langue de chat cookie adorning its peak, a mountain of shaved ice stands tall in its bowl. The fluffy, cloud-like ice crystals melt like snowflakes in your mouth. The sauce, a mixture of Japanese hōjicha (roasted green tea) and milk, is drizzled over the top, providing a smooth, fresh flavor. After uncovering the base of the ice mountain, you will discover a brown-sugar panna cotta. The marriage of tea and brown sugar creates a consistent flavor throughout the whole dessert. A small cup to the side of the huge bowl of shaved ice contains the exquisite sauce for customers to pour over the ice.

If we compare regular shaved ice to a slice of cake from a restaurant’s dessert trolley, then this Baked Tea Latte Shaved Ice from Kakigori Toshihiko more resembles a sophisticated dessert à l’assiette (“plated dessert”), sculpted by a master, that can be seen on the menu of a high-end restaurant where everything is freshly made to order.

A spiritual journey

What Kakigori Toshihiko sells is Japanese-­style shaved ice, and the storefront emphasizes this fact. In the doorway hang Japanese curtains, which when pushed aside reveal a long counter where customers can sit and watch the owner make the shaved ice on the spot, much like a ­sushi chef.

Although he sells Japanese shaved ice, Wu Chun-yen employs French dessert-making techniques, with most of his ingredients being locally sourced. It is thanks to his unique background that Wu is able to blend these elements together seamlessly. “This entire shop is like a spiritual journey,” says Wu as he looks around his domain.

Despite his young age, Wu has been in the business for over ten years. When he was 16, he began apprenticing at a Japanese restaurant. After he graduated from a culinary high school in Taiwan, he left for Japan to study at Tokyo Confectionery College, where he majored in Western desserts. After his studies, Wu came back to Taiwan and worked at high-end restaurants, with his last job at a Michelin-starred French restaurant.

During Wu’s time abroad, a classmate of his had a job at a shaved ice shop, where he gave Wu his first encounter with Japanese shaved ice. The refreshing, smooth taste of the ice was love at first bite.

After deciding to start his own business, Wu had to also consider consumer preferences in Taiwan. Wu, who hated the heat and loved frozen desserts, opened his ice restaurant, Kakigori Toshihiko, on a side lane off Jinmen Street in Taipei.

Tricks of the trade

In recent years there has been a surge in the popularity of Japanese shaved ice in Taiwan, but only a few sellers have fully mastered what makes it special. The biggest difference between Japanese and Taiwanese shaved ice lies in how finely the ice is shaved. Making Japanese shaved ice involves an extra, crucial step of allowing the ice to warm up, something which is not done for the Taiwanese version. For Japanese shaved ice, the ice block is left to sit until it turns transparent, which happens when its temperature rises to somewhere between ‡7 and 0°C. Only then is it shaved into fine, fluffy, feathery ice crystals which instantly melt in your mouth.

However, traditional Japanese shaved ice is nowhere near as generous with toppings as its Taiwanese counterpart. For this, Kakigori Toshihiko appears to have managed to strike a happy medium. While Wu’s shaved ice still uses a sweet sauce for the main flavoring, he finishes the ice off with an astonishing array of lavish toppings to meet the expectations of Taiwanese ­consumers.

For example, Kakigori’s Coconut Strawberry Shaved Ice actually got its inspiration from the coconut strawberry bread from traditional Taiwanese bakeries. The flavor of the coconut in that traditional bread is known to overpower everything else and the bread has an unappealing texture, so Wu decided to reinvent the dessert. He first bakes the coconut and soaks it in milk to extract a milder flavor. He then tops off the shaved ice with cream cheese and some coconut sablé cookies.

Another example of this is the Taro Mont Blanc, which uses taro from Taichung’s Dajia District. The taro is heated and emulsified, giving it a viscous texture that differs dramatically from that of the taro paste filling in taro cakes. The spiral top layer is a nod to the shape of a classic Mont Blanc tart, but its sticky mouthfeel is reminis­cent of a number of common ingredi­ents in Japanese cuisine such as mashed yam, okra, and natto.

Midnight ice cream parlor

In stark contrast with Kakigori Toshihiko’s precise and meticulous works of art are the desserts from ­another Taipei shop, Studio du Double V. The menu here reflects the simple and straightforward nature of street food.

Located in a busy side alley with brightly lit shop signs, Double V opens in the evening and closes late.

The story of Double V begins with the owner, Willson Chen. Chen entered late into the business, having majored in electrical engineering for his undergrad. However, as someone who thrives on change, he grew to dislike the formulaic and inflexible work atmosphere of engineering. When he got a part-time job working in a chain coffee store during college, he developed a passion for baking. But it wasn’t until he finished up his mandatory military service that he finally became an apprentice at a tradi­tional bakery.

Willson Chen certainly started later than most. “I felt like I knew nothing compared to those who majored in culinary arts,” he recalls. He inevitably faced many difficulties, but Chen was determined to succeed. He was more than happy to work from six in the morning to ten at night every day. “Each day I would come home, shower, fall asleep on the couch, and wake the next morning and go to work.” When Chen had mastered most of the skills that the shop had to offer, he followed advice from his mentor and left to study in France, the culinary center of the world, where he graduated from the culinary arts school Ecole Lenôtre.

The science of making ice

While Chen had taken the long way to get there, his background in engineering helped him approach his work more scientifically. Combined with his training in Western cuisine and his proclivity for shaking things up, Chen was able to put Double V in a class of its own.

Those who have eaten Double V’s desserts all know how amazing they are. Not only is there an ever-changing list of options being invented, but Chen also manages to keep the same fine texture for each and every flavor.

Making gelato is an art which fuses science and flavor. Since every ingredient undergoes different physical changes at different temperatures, making gelato is an especially challenging test of how well a master knows his ingredients. Each of the signature flavors at Double V has its own independent recipe. This is not only for flavor considerations, but also to ensure that each variety of gelato is equally soft when refrigerated under the same conditions.

To date, Double V has invented more than 450 different recipes, and the menu changes with the seasons. The winter menu features more mellow flavors like those of cream liqueurs, whiskey, and nuts, while the summer has more fruit. In following the seasons, Double V illustrates the intricacy and breadth of frozen desserts. Even with classic vanilla, the winter and summer recipes differ, as winter recipes tend to be rich, while summer’s are refreshing. Common flavors like matcha and brown sugar can be made into five or even ten separate recipes, allowing a single ingredient to be interpreted in a surprising number of ways. With his background in Western cuisine, Willson Chen can even draw inspiration from classic desserts, such as when he turned the fillings of caramel apple and lemon tarts into frozen versions of the two.

Willson Chen says that regular desserts can be made with one ornate layer after another, but the more unassuming frozen desserts need to “knock ’em dead” with a single bite. Even so, in the apparent simplicity of his gelato lies a meticulous attention to detail.   

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繁體 日本語



文‧蘇俐穎 圖‧林旻萱



台北兩家冰店:「Kakigori Toshihiko」與「Studio du Double V」,不約而同以創辦人的名字作命名。

賣日式刨冰的「Kakigori Toshihiko」,「Kakigori」(かき氷)指的是日文的刨冰,「Toshihiko」(俊彥)則是店主人吳俊彥名字的日文發音。因為店名饒舌,許多熟客索性直呼這裡叫「俊彥刨冰」。

賣義式冰淇淋的「Studio du Double V」,「Double V」即是法文字母中「W」的發音,也是創辦人陳謙璿英文名字Willson開頭的第一個字母。




細細回想著剛在Kakigori Toshihiko吃完的「焙茶拿鐵脆片」,再比照一下平常吃冰的經驗,更加肯定了這次的體驗不尋常。這兒的刨冰,除了冰體輕盈如羽毛的質地,輔以費工熬煮的花式淋醬,整體具備完整的造型結構,是一場經過精心設計,有著起承轉合的感官體驗。如果說,一般的刨冰像一塊切片蛋糕,那這份完整呈現師傅手藝的冰品,則像是在高檔餐廳裡頭,強調現點現做,以菜餚的型式所端出來的盤式甜點(dessert à l'assiette )。


Kakigori Toshihiko賣的是日式刨冰,店面設計亦是。門面掛上日式門簾,入內一條長吧檯,客人坐在吧檯前,像握壽司的「板前」,可以觀看老闆現場製作的過程。








但日式刨冰不如台式刨冰強調澎湃的配料,主要採用淋醬的形式來為冰品添加風味,並沒有台式刨冰在視覺上「配料滿滿」的震撼。這一點在Kakigori Toshihiko有了折衝、融合的痕跡。吳俊彥的刨冰,主要仍以淋醬作為風味的基底,但再運用浮誇的裝飾,創造出視覺上的驚奇,符合國內消費者的期待。



壽司店的板前,常被比喻成師傅與客人決勝的一線戰場。坐上Kakigori Toshihiko的吧檯亦如是,看吳俊彥手腳俐落地削切、淋醬、塑型、裝飾,除了欣賞這場電光石火的演出,也考驗著客人,在讚聲「好吃」以外,你能懂得多少職人不明說,卻細膩曲折的心意?


與Kakigori Toshihiko的精雕細琢截然不同,同樣在台北另一處的Studio du Double V,展現的是冰品這項街頭小吃直率的真性情。

開在燈紅酒綠的台北條通,猶如「深夜食堂」一般,Double V的營業時間,是從傍晚營業直到夜深。店面落在等待都更的老宅一樓,房子的前身是教堂,經過重新裝修,噴上了街頭感的塗鴉,昔日的警衛亭被翻修成販售區,一扇長窗向外推開,客人們在此點餐、取餐,建築物前方的一方庭院,擺上簡單的長椅,客人往往取餐後就此坐下,彼此分享。此情此景,像瞬間來到了歐洲街頭。

Double V賣的是義式冰淇淋,包含了兩大類。添牛奶,口感溫潤的Gelato;以及不含牛奶、零脂肪,以水果為主的Sorbetto(即Sorbet,雪酪)。這是一間照著季節走,求新求變的冰淇淋店,每日供應九種,品項日日更替。


義式冰淇淋在台灣已是風行有年,而多數人的第一印象,就是冰淇淋櫃裡頭繽紛多彩的冰品。但Double V不是,一桶桶的冰淇淋放在收銀檯後方的冷藏櫃裡,客人看菜單點單,師傅才開蓋挖取,挖冰淇淋的冰杓也很罕見,造型猶如飯匙一般呈現扁平狀。這些枝微末節裡的「不一樣」,都默默暗示著這家小店的專業。

故事必須從Double V的主人陳謙璿開始說起。他入行得晚,大學本來念的是電機系,但個性喜多變化的他,並不適應工科制式而僵硬的工作環境,加上大學時在連鎖咖啡館打工,才點燃了對烘焙的熱情。退伍後,才進入傳統的麵包店,從學徒做起。


英文說不上流利,出國前才念了兩個月的法文,一下子來到異鄉,讓陳謙璿吃了不少苦,「但那時就只是想做自己想做的事。」最後,他從雷諾特廚藝學校(Ecole Lenôtre)畢業,回國後在中華榖類食品工業技術研究所擔任助教,後來轉任進口食品貿易公司裡的技師,因緣際會開始推廣起冰品的原物料。



雖然繞了點路,不過,工科出身的他,還看得出重視科學邏輯的那一面,再加上西點的訓練,揉合個人喜新求變的性格,讓Double V有了獨樹一格的樣子。

吃過Double V的冰品便曉得,這家冰店好厲害,不僅種類多變、研發能力強,且是不論哪一種口味,質地都一樣的細緻。

冰淇淋是結合科學與風味的藝術。因著每一種食材,在不同溫度的物理變化並不一樣,因此製作冰淇淋,格外考驗冰淇淋師傅對於食材的掌握能力。Double V主打每一支口味都有獨立的配方,意義也在於此,這不僅是風味上的考量,也是為了讓冰淇淋在相樣的保存條件下,都能達到同樣柔軟的狀態。而販售區的冰淇淋冷藏櫃,刻意不採常見易塑型、挖取的半球型冰杓,原因也在於此──使用扁平狀的冰杓,太硬的冰挖不起來,太軟的冰容易散落,可藉此讓師傅了解,冰淇淋的狀態是否完美。


Double V至今已累積超過450種配方,視季節推出品項,冬天多奶酒、威士忌、堅果等醇厚的口味,夏天則多選用水果。這間「跟著季節走」的冰店,展現出了冰品的細緻與寬廣。即使是經典的香草,冬夏配方也各有不同,冬天濃郁,夏天清爽;常見的抹茶、黑糖,能一口氣推出五種、十種,將單一食材的面貌淋漓詮釋。西點底子的陳謙璿,甚至能從甜點汲取靈感,像他曾經把焦糖蘋果、檸檬塔的內餡製做成「冰型態的甜點」。

陳謙璿說,甜點,可以華麗堆疊,但其貌不揚的冰,要的是「致命的一擊」,但他的冰品,在這直率裡又有著體貼入微的細膩。像傅素春的一首詩〈我想我吃冰淇淋會好〉:「想和世界痊癒的時候──╱我想:吃冰淇淋,會好。」四季皆宜,無論何種心境,吃一口Double V的冰,都能從此找到與世界和解的方式。                                   


文・蘇俐穎 写真・林旻萱 翻訳・山口 雪菜



台北にある「Kakigori Toshihiko」と「Studio du Double V」という二つのアイスの店は、いずれも店名に創設者の名を冠している。

日本風のかき氷店「Kakigori Toshihiko」のToshihikoは店主・呉俊彦の名前だ。

イタリア風のアイスクリームを売る「Studio du Double V」のDouble Vはフランス語のwの発音で、これも創設者・陳謙璿の英語名Willsonのイニシャルである。




Kakigori Toshihikoで「ほうじ茶ラテ」をいただく経験は、台湾の一般のかき氷店での経験と大きく異なる。羽毛のように軽い氷、手間をかけて作られたソース、美しいフォルム。すべてに配慮が行き届いて起承転結があり、まるで高級レストランのデザートのようだ。


Kakigori Toshihikoはかき氷だけでなく、店のデザインも日本風だ。入口には暖簾がかけられ、中に入ると長いカウンターがあり、すし屋のように職人の手さばきをみることができる。











すし屋のカウンターは、職人が勝負する戦場だが、Kakigori Toshihikoのカウンターも同じである。呉俊彦が氷を削り、盛り付けていく姿を目の前で見ることができる。また逆に、職人はその繊細な配慮が、どこまでお客に伝わっているかも直接感じ取ることができるのである。


同じく台北市内にあるStudio du Double Vは、町の気軽なアイスクリーム屋である。


イタリアのアイスクリームと言えばカラフルなアイスが並んでいるイメージがあるが、Double Vはそうではない。ショーケースは店頭ではなく、レジの後ろにあり、お客はメニューを見て注文する。アイスをすくうのに使うのも普通の半球形のディッシャーではなく、しゃもじのような形のものだ。こうしたディテールの違いが、この店の専門性の高さを暗示している。






理工系出身の彼は、やはり科学理論を重んじ、洋菓子作りの基礎に独自のアイディアを加え、Double Vをユニークな店にした。


アイスクリームは科学と味覚を総合したアートである。食材によって異なる温度における物理的変化も違ってくるため、アイスを作る際には職人の判断が非常に重要だ。Double Vでは、それぞれのフレーバーに独特の配合があるが、どのフレーバーも、アイスクリームとして保存した状態で同様の柔らかさにする必要がある。店のフリーザーからアイスをすくう時は、一般の半球形のディッシャーではなく、しゃもじのような平らな道具を使う。そうすると、アイスが固すぎればすくい取れないし、柔らかすぎると落ちてしまう。職人がアイスクリームの状態を完全に掌握しているからこそ、平らな道具が使えるのである。


Double Vはこれまでに450種類のアイスクリームを開発し、季節によって売るものを変えてきた。冬はクリーム系リキュールやウイスキー、ナッツなど、芳醇な風味の物、夏はフルーツをメインにする。また、一般によく見られる抹茶や黒糖などは一気に5~10種類の味を作り、単一の素材からさまざまな風味を引き出す。洋菓子を学んだ陳謙璿は、スイーツからもアイディアを取り入れ、カラメルリンゴや、レモンタルトのクリームの部分からアイスを作ることもある。



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