The Ideal Mountain Retreat--Fengshan

Angela Lee　/　photos Chien Yung-pin　/　tr. by Mark Halperin

May 1986

中文

The contented people of Fengshan lack for almost nothing. Only for seafood do they leave the mountain and go shopping.

Unspoiled, uncrowded scenic sites grow fewer by the day, but fortunately Taiwan still remains blessed with several such places. One spot for those looking for outdoor relaxation of the rawer sort with a bit of excitement thrown in is Fengshan, in Chiayi County.

The first pair of highlights to greet visitors to Fengshan comes in the form of two bridges. Wuling Bridge, a shaky suspension construction, announces its presence immediately, and then yields to a narrow path, which in turn leads to Tumu Bridge. Tumu can be translated as single wood, as the bridge is but one fallen tree, unshaped and unmodified by human hands. Only 50 centimeters wide and with a curved surface, it must be negotiated by sidestepping, one foot at a time. Those who lose their balance are punished with a quick bath in the shallow creek below. And this is only the beginning.

Part of Wufeng Township, Fengshan has only recently been opened to tourists. Home to Shihkupan Creek and its web-like net of tributaries, the area is 750 meters (about 2500 feet) above sea level and the area boasts an abundance of waterfalls, small suspension bridges, and fog.

Fengshan is perhaps best seen in a two or three-day trip. The village itself has five lodges where visitors may stay and eat, and a forty-minute walk leads to similar, more secluded accommodations.

Perhaps waterfalls are the best place to start for the travellers from the city. Proceeding north from Fengshan we pass over Wuling and Tumu Bridges and enter the gorge of the creek. Rocks and boulders of all sizes lay scattered about and the rumble of rushing water is with us with every step. A bit further and we come up on many small ponds, whose water not only reflects the stone walls around it but also reveals the busy comings and goings of fish among the rocks below.

After about forty-five more minutes of hiking in the mountain air, we arrive at a cascade pouring down from a spot about four stories high. Its sight and sound are enough to calm the most turbulent of spirits, and the occasional mist that drifts in adds a further touch of tranquility to the scene.

Having had our fill of waterfall no. 1, we pass to its right to visit waterfall no. 2. The path becomes a twenty-step wooden staircase with rope, and after about 20 minutes, we are presented with a mini-waterfall, measuring the height of about two people. More hiking uphill leads to more rocks. At first we have little trouble making our way, leaping from spot to spot. After a while, though, hands as well as feet are needed to continue our climb, and some rocks are of such size that those hikers in front must pull up the less agile ones behind.

By the time we finish inching our way to waterfall no. 3, waterfalls are no longer the main attraction, serving instead as milestones along the way. Waterfall no. 3, has only three small columns of water to show for itself, and our attention has shifted to the massive boulders that line our path.

Finding waterfalls nos. 4 and 5 takes along more wooden stairways with ropes. No. 6, hidden in a mountain cleft, can only be heard, not seen. At dusk we head down the steep slope to Fengshan finding on the other side of Wuling Bridge a huge rock made from a petrified seashell. Such specimens are plentiful in the waterfall area, evidence of Taiwan's undersea past.

Shihmeng Gorge the next day provides a bigger challenge. We first cross bridge no. 2 going east and hike along the service road until it ends. Forty minutes of walking takes us through forests of bamboo and other vegetation as well as valleys bounded by boulders piling their way up the mountainside. Climbing the mountain takes about an hour, when we take a breather at Hsienmeng Garden Lodge. The path is quite steep and those not used to such going may want to take a rest every five minutes or so.

The lodge itself appears to be in a world of its own. There is no lanterns, only candles, and the phone line was installed by the lodge owner himself. The fog never stops shifting, hiding scenery here, showing some there. Together, the mountains, the fog, and the light drizzle make for a pleasant, ethereal experience.

Leaving the lodge means more climbing. As the mountains close in, those who enjoy shouting to the wilds find their words being echoed back from the hills. An hour's walk brings us to an elevation of 1600 meters (one mile). Fog and boulders are everywhere, explaining the gorge's name, "Stone Dream" in Chinese.

Though the setting may inspire such fantasies, visitors cannot hop from one spot to another as they please like mountain fairies. Caves of all sizes and depths dot the mountain, and the rocks themselves are covered with moss and lichen, making us concentrate on our footing lest we fall into the deep pool below. In the gorge grow many banyan and Chinese juniper, whose blossoms in the second lunar month turn the spot into a world of white. After about three in the afternoon we must start on our way back, owing to the heavy fog and early evening here, and taking care not to slip on the gravel and mud.

The third day takes us to Granite Water Cave, only a five-minute walk from Fengshan. Made of limestone and fronted by a small waterfall, the cave must be squeezed in through by a tiny entrance. Once inside, we find ourselves 20-30 centimeters (8-12 inches) deep in water, and raingear is recommended.

With the low ceiling forcing us to stoop, we find the walls and top of the cave covered with stalactite covered with a moss-like green. And though there are no unusual stone pillars or stalagmites, the light from our flashlight together with the stalactite produce a spectacular sparkling green effect.

Within the cave is another, whose entrance is even smaller than the first. But whereas the "foyer" could hold only one person, the "living room" can take three or four. The decor is different, too, changing from green to a rosy pink.

Flashlight and raingear aside, few visitors manage to leave the cave unscathed. Nevertheless, all agree that the experience is well worth it.

Outside the cave is a small bamboo pavilion, where we can rest and enjoy Dragon Falls across the way. Dropping a full 1000 meters, the falls are the highest in Taiwan, being particularly impressive from May until September, when the river runs high and the water seems to issue from the heavens themselves.

Those still with time to look around may explore a forest with a massive banyan tree with over 100 roots, turtle- and tortoise-shaped rocks two stories high, and a cave inhabited by bats at rest. Others with different tastes may head for Shihkupan Creek to play in the water, picnic, or fish. Whatever your pleasure, it's best to head back to the lodge at four or five before it gets too dark. To sum up Fengshan in a phrase--the thrills are many but the dangers are few.

[Picture Caption]

The contented people of Fengshan lack for almost nothing. Only for seafood do they leave the mountain and go shopping.

Students on their way home cross one of Fengshan's five hanging bridges.

The swift current of one of Fengshan's waterfalls.

Shrimp and fish swim in the shallow creeks.

One of the stunning views of Fengshan.

Maoshulin in Shihmeng Gorge presents a mysterious look.

An old tree or the face of a bearded, white haired elder?

(Above) The lily, a staple of Chinese cuisine. (Below) Bamboo is plentiful in Fengshan, and bamboo shoots of all varieties are found in Fengshan cuisine.

Ever-shifting fog helps give Fengshan innumerable different vistas.

The pools of Shihmeng Gorge are far deeper than one might expect.