中華美饌(十九)蟹黃菜心

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1981 / 9月



在台灣每年秋末到第二年春初盛產海蟹,這種台灣俗稱「蜞仔」的海蟹,形狀扁大,殼背上有白色斑點,螯腳及步腳也生有許多白斑紋,蟹蓋在褐黃底色中帶有濃暗的藍紫色。由於此種海蟹離海後極易死亡,故選購時以肚面顏色白而腹部堅硬、腳未脫落者做為新鮮標準。蟹性極寒,食時無論如何烹調均需配加薑與酒去解寒,以免傷害腸胃。

蟹除可連殼烹調供食之外,也可蒸熟剝取蟹肉和蟹膏配製味美佳餚。本頁介紹「蟹黃菜心」一味如下:買一隻較大之海蟹刷洗乾淨後,蒸熟(大火開水約二十分鐘),待稍涼,揭開蟹蓋,切成小快用尖竹筷或蟹鉗挖出白色蟹肉。另外橘紅色蟹膏也挑出洗淨切碎。小青菜20支成三寸長,用開水略為燙煮一下沖過冷水,擠乾。起油鍋(三湯匙)爆炒切碎之蔥、薑各一湯匙後,放進蟹肉輕炒兩下,馬上淋下一湯匙的料酒並注入清湯(或熱水)一杯半,加入鹽、胡椒各少許,煮滾後淋下調水之太白粉使之黏稠,將火改小,從鍋面高處細細淋下蛋白,並將蟹膏撒下並補一湯匙油下鍋拌合好即熄火。先盛出半量到小碗內,然後,將已炒過而稍煮軟之小青菜(加過鹽)放下鍋中拌勻馬上盛到大盤中,然後將小碗肉之蟹肉料淋澆在上面即可送席。

註:如無小梗青菜可改用青色菜花或綠色蘆筍,西洋菜,塌棵菜,以及白菜、豆腐,各種菇類皆可。

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EN

Crab Meat with Green Cabbage


Taiwan enjoys a rich harvest of crabs from the end of autumn to the following spring. Since crab quickly spoils, buyers should know how to recognize a fresh crab from its white and solid underparts and legs which do not detach easily. As well as boiling whole with the shell, crabs can be prepared by removing the flesh to make into all kinds of delicacies. Method of this month's dish is as follows:

1. Wash clean a large crab and steam over high heat for 20 minutes. Remove crab meat and roe and dice small.

2. Cut 20 cabbages into pieces each about 3 inches long. Boil about 1 minute over high heat, remove, soak in cold water, then drain.

3. Heat 3 T. oil in frying pan. Stir fry 1 T. chopped ginger and green onion each for a while, add crab meat, and sprinkle with 1 T. wine and 11/2 C. soup stock or hot water. Add 1 t. salt and pepper each, and 11/2 T. cornstarch paste. Boil until thickened.

4. Lower heat. Pour out 1 scrambled egg white slowly into the pan. Add chopped crab roe and 1 T. of boiled oil. Stir until blended.

5. Place half of the mixture to a small bowl, then place the already fried cabbage in the pan. Blend evenly and remove to a large plate. Pour the crab mixture in the small bowl back to the platter and serve.

Note: Cauliflower, green asparagus, Chinese broccoli, bean curd, and all kinds of mushrooms can be used to replace green cabbage in this dish.

Fu Pei-Mei

 

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