為中國式服裝下註解

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1990 / 3月

文‧宋菊琴



中國風吹起了服裝界的省思,設計師們開始投入中國風服裝的設計,但是,什麼才是中國式服裝?且看看各家設計師怎麼說。

蔡孟夏(龍笛實業公司負責人):將中國的建築、雕刻、陶瓷、書法、國畫乃至節慶的氣氛、邊疆民族的民俗特色等,透過線條、色彩、布料及首飾、配件的整體設計組合,來表達出具有中國風味的服裝。這種中國的感覺是直接的,有感染性的。

李尤(李尤服飾公司負責人):在設計手法上必須隨時配合國際流行趨勢,以現代手法來處理、安排傳統文物。例如,流行合身剪裁,中國式服裝也不能免俗,而且,現代人的生活忙碌,肢體動作大,「實用」也是很重要的。此外,應針對不同場合的需要,在中國感的設計上點到為止,恰到好處即可,這才能強調中國服裝的優美特質,而避免戲劇化的效果。

黃嘉純(黃嘉純設計公司負責人):把中國精神融入設計之中,強調用線條來呈現適合現代婦女的含蓄美。例如,以宋瓷特有的青、白、灰等色澤,做為服裝的色調,再運用宋瓷的輪廓或局部的圖案做為設計重點,而以生絲、棉等自然的布料來表現簡約雅緻的仕女風采。

溫慶珠(伊莎貝爾服裝設計公司負責人):要表現現代精神的中國式服裝,不是以那麼民俗的氣氛來呈現,而是以溫和的方式表達,將強烈的中國調子降到最低,而以單純的線條如高腰、披掛式或領型的變化,用精緻的手工、布料搭配古董配件,當然色彩也很重要,而最終目的就是展現中國風情。

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EN

Chinese Fashion Defined

Theresa Sung /tr. by Peter Eberly


What is the Chinese style in contemporary fashion? Here's what several leading designers have to say.

M. S. Tsai (head of Long Range Corporation): It means expressing a Chinese flavor in clothes through an overall design combination of lines, colors, fabrics, ornaments, and accessories that use elements of Chinese architecture, sculpture, ceramics, calligraphy, painting, and auspicious atmosphere of festivals along with folk characteristics of the border peoples. It's a Chinese feeling that is both direct and infectious.

You Lee (head of Lee You Fashion Company): It means handling and arranging traditional artifacts with contemporary methods, while keeping design methods in line with international fashion trends at all times. Closefitting cuts are popular, for instance, and Chinese-style clothing can't be any different. People today lead active lives and move about a lot, so practicality is very important. It also has to be suitable for various occasions and avoid too dramatic an effect.

Carson Huang (head of Carson Huang Jone Inc.): It means permeating the design with a Chinese spirit and emphasizing the use of lines to express a refined, inner beauty that suits the contemporary woman. For example, using the aquamarine, white, and ash-gray tones of Sung ceramics and their contours or arcs as the design focus along with raw silk, cotton, or Other natural fabrics to express the simple, elegant style of a refined woman.

Isabelle Wen (president of Isabelle International Associate Co., Ltd.): Chinese-style clothing with a contemporary spirit plays down the Chinese motifs and makes use of plain and simple lines, exquisite workmanship and fabrics, and matching antique accessories. Colors are very important too, of course, and the ultimate purpose is to convey a Chinese feeling.

 

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